Picking up from last weeks Designing and Debunking, let's finish the Buzzfeed's "15 Lifehacks for your Tiny Bathroom" .
9. Use a stacked plate rack: My counter is too small to support more than a toothbrush stand and a bottle of hand soap. I would think that most truly small bathrooms would suffer the same problem.
10. Magnet board for makeup: I don't have room. I also don't have that much makeup. If you do, be my guest! I can see it being a focal point and a space save and art, all in one!
11. Mason jar wall storage: I could see using this but I would use it for holding toothbrushes and toothpaste (to get them off the counter). The cotton swabs and cotton pads would still sit in their respective containers in the baskets under the sink.
12. Use a large mirror to reflect the space: Mirrors are often used to help create the illusion of space and this is a valid design tip. Keep in mind the scale of the room when selecting the mirror. Having a 4' mirror hung in my small bathroom would be too much and would make me see all the ugly bits I try so purposefully to avoid. I would, instead, use small mirrors on the wall opposite of the vanity mirror to reflect the space (it wouldn't work in my space, this would assume that the two walls would be opposite and not behind other obstructions). One could also use several small mirrors, framed perhaps, as art as well as using them to create the illusion of space.
13. Roll your Towels: I don't actually store my towels in this bathroom because there is truly no room for them. If I did have room, I still wouldn't roll them, I don't like how they don't roll perfectly. I like the idea of rolling hand towels of face cloths for immediate use (again, I don't have room for this but have considered using this in my kitchen).
14. Install pull-out drawers in your cabinets: I like this suggestion, it is valid, assuming your cabinets will accommodate it. Keep in mind, these pull out style drawers will eat up valuable real estate in the cabinet itself. Although it looks flush mount, they typically are not, additionally, they need to be able to retract back far enough for the door to close. I personally use baskets in mine and find this works well. There are also "other" things you need to store under the sink (like the toilet brush).
15. Install multiple towel bars on back of door: Most interior passage doors are hollow core and may not support a sufficient amount of weight to actually hold up against the use. This would also mean folding your towels into 'airing cupboard' size after each use; this slows down the air drying ability because there are more layers of towel. I would opt for hooks or an 'over the door' system. IF you use an OTD system, keep in mind that in places with fluctuating humidity, this may make your door impossible to close. We have one (I bought for our housecoats) and it only works on one door in our entire house.
I realize it is highly unlikely that anyone will run out and actually apply all of the hints in the BuzzFeed article but I wanted to point out why it's so important to not just decorate a space. Design is so much more than paint colours and throw cushions. Always think of the principals of design before tackling any project!
Showing posts with label Design Composition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Design Composition. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
We-Design-Day: Designing for your life (and debunking bad design)
Since being laid up sick since last summer, I've not done much design or DIY work but I have been reading a fair amount and I am continually amazed at some of the "want to be design" advice I see being circulated.
Now, it is no secret that I am a firm believer in marrying 'ability' with education. To be able to be called an interior designer, one must meet a strict set of educational and practical experience requirements. Many (most) of the popular articles, tips and such are being shared by decorators (not designers); decorators have a very valid place in the architectural world and I've worked with many good ones. I am about the technical side of interior design so often pairing my technical ability with a decorator is a good fit because interior styling isn't really my forte. Who does it bug? Mostly us designer types and poor unsuspecting people who hire designers but whose renovations fall short or expectations or fail to meet legal requirements.
That said, one of the other obvious signs of this is seeing articles like this one (pinned all over Pinterest) giving "Fifteen Lifehacks for Your Tiny Bathroom".
Now, it should be revealed that I have a tiny bathroom. A really, tiny, tiny bathroom. The en suite on our master bedroom measures an enormous 6'x10'. In this space, we have a small vanity, toilet and stall shower. It is the kind of bathroom that two people cannot be in (but in all honestly, I don't want to share the bathroom with my husband). There isn't wall space for art, towel bars or towel storage. Like I said, two people are hard pressed to fit in the space. We can't open the shower stall door without bumping the wall and if you lean to your left while seated on the toilet, you'll hit your head on the wall.
Looking at the pictures of this article, which I realize are meant to be applied to your own tiny bathroom and may actually only be suggested so that you can try to apply them in a small space, the bathrooms are huge, thus negating any potential credibility the article may have had. Some of the comments reflect that. To me, design, and sharing design, needs to be taught and shown in the light in which it's meant to be applied. This is how I approach design and I know not everyone does.
I can also tell you that a few of the suggestions put forth would not work in a small bathroom. Below is my unbiased, unsolicited opinion. (Number corresponds with the number in the article - the 'hacks' are applied to my own TINY en suite bath).
1. Apply a frame to a basic mirror: This wouldn't work in my small bath for two reasons: The first is it is a medicine cabinet (to provide a tiny bit of storage) and the second is because even if it was a flat mount mirror, the clearance around it wouldn't allow for more than a 1" wide "frame" and would end up throwing the proportion and scale of the space off by trying to crowd too many things into a small space.
2. Spice racks for holding necessities: Another "no go" because the I'd be forever banging my elbow on them and they'd interfere with the opening/closing of the medicine cabinet.
3. Coat hooks for towels: While this is a good suggestion, a small bathroom likely won't have the wall space to make the piece pictured actually work. There is only one wall where this *may* work in our en suite however the risk of me hitting my head on it every time I flipped my head over to put my towel on my head is higher and I wouldn't do it.
4. Use small storage solutions: This was one of the things that inspired me to write this. Go take a look at the picture again and tell me if it will work. Understanding spatial relationships is a very big part of interior design. You'd never close the door - the little do-dads hanging on the door would bang into the crap sitting on the shelf (and likely the shelves themselves). The eyeliners - the door won't even close! There is less than 1/4 clearance between the door and the shelf... There is a reason medicine cabinets don't already have these kinds of things in place. Also, many of the doors used in bathrooms aren't metal - because you know, metal rusts when exposed to really damp conditions. Sticky strips might work to adhere them though, if you don't mind not closing your cabinet door.
5. Bobby pin strip: This would work. But from a purely aesthetic perspective, why would you want too? Stick them in decorative box, jar or other such thingy and display as useful art.
6. Second shower curtain rod: This is actually a very good idea and although it wouldn't work in my en suite (because the shower is a little less than 3' square and we're tall (I'm 5'11, my husband is 6'3)) in our small main bath, it might - but keep in mind that it still could be a slip hazard and a head bumping hazard (that's my inner safety representative speaking).
7. Shelf above door: Although in principle, this isn't a terrible idea, depending on the location of the door, this may not work or would throw off the symmetry of the room. Our door is mounted less than 2" from the wall so although I could place a shelf above it it may make the room appear lopsided. Furthermore, my door is 80" AFF, thus leaving only 16" for storage (assuming you've got 8' ceilings like me). I like the idea of storing my rolled towels up there, however, but I dislike dusting so I'm not sure I'd store anything that needed dusting.
8. Create a Focal Point: This is a design concept that I've seen applied to bathrooms before and I think if your bathroom is of the right size, it would be fine to use (but not TWO focal points like the bathroom illustrated has - the 60's inspired mirrored sunburst and the vase on the table with the sticks in it - OH and what about the door the table is blocking? May we not need into that space at some point?) But I digress... In my 60 sq. ft. bare bones en suite, it would not. Anything that didn't belong in a bathroom or wasn't 100% necessary has very little point being in the room in the first place. I am not a fru-fru designer, however, so maybe it's just me. I dislike 'accessories' and stuff that needs maintenance. This is why I work in institutional design.
This is a long list so I'm going to end it here this week but do check back next week as I continue through the list and sort out reality from fantasy of the "Lifehacks" article. Thanks for stopping in!
Now, it is no secret that I am a firm believer in marrying 'ability' with education. To be able to be called an interior designer, one must meet a strict set of educational and practical experience requirements. Many (most) of the popular articles, tips and such are being shared by decorators (not designers); decorators have a very valid place in the architectural world and I've worked with many good ones. I am about the technical side of interior design so often pairing my technical ability with a decorator is a good fit because interior styling isn't really my forte. Who does it bug? Mostly us designer types and poor unsuspecting people who hire designers but whose renovations fall short or expectations or fail to meet legal requirements.
That said, one of the other obvious signs of this is seeing articles like this one (pinned all over Pinterest) giving "Fifteen Lifehacks for Your Tiny Bathroom".
Now, it should be revealed that I have a tiny bathroom. A really, tiny, tiny bathroom. The en suite on our master bedroom measures an enormous 6'x10'. In this space, we have a small vanity, toilet and stall shower. It is the kind of bathroom that two people cannot be in (but in all honestly, I don't want to share the bathroom with my husband). There isn't wall space for art, towel bars or towel storage. Like I said, two people are hard pressed to fit in the space. We can't open the shower stall door without bumping the wall and if you lean to your left while seated on the toilet, you'll hit your head on the wall.
Looking at the pictures of this article, which I realize are meant to be applied to your own tiny bathroom and may actually only be suggested so that you can try to apply them in a small space, the bathrooms are huge, thus negating any potential credibility the article may have had. Some of the comments reflect that. To me, design, and sharing design, needs to be taught and shown in the light in which it's meant to be applied. This is how I approach design and I know not everyone does.
I can also tell you that a few of the suggestions put forth would not work in a small bathroom. Below is my unbiased, unsolicited opinion. (Number corresponds with the number in the article - the 'hacks' are applied to my own TINY en suite bath).
1. Apply a frame to a basic mirror: This wouldn't work in my small bath for two reasons: The first is it is a medicine cabinet (to provide a tiny bit of storage) and the second is because even if it was a flat mount mirror, the clearance around it wouldn't allow for more than a 1" wide "frame" and would end up throwing the proportion and scale of the space off by trying to crowd too many things into a small space.
2. Spice racks for holding necessities: Another "no go" because the I'd be forever banging my elbow on them and they'd interfere with the opening/closing of the medicine cabinet.
3. Coat hooks for towels: While this is a good suggestion, a small bathroom likely won't have the wall space to make the piece pictured actually work. There is only one wall where this *may* work in our en suite however the risk of me hitting my head on it every time I flipped my head over to put my towel on my head is higher and I wouldn't do it.
4. Use small storage solutions: This was one of the things that inspired me to write this. Go take a look at the picture again and tell me if it will work. Understanding spatial relationships is a very big part of interior design. You'd never close the door - the little do-dads hanging on the door would bang into the crap sitting on the shelf (and likely the shelves themselves). The eyeliners - the door won't even close! There is less than 1/4 clearance between the door and the shelf... There is a reason medicine cabinets don't already have these kinds of things in place. Also, many of the doors used in bathrooms aren't metal - because you know, metal rusts when exposed to really damp conditions. Sticky strips might work to adhere them though, if you don't mind not closing your cabinet door.
5. Bobby pin strip: This would work. But from a purely aesthetic perspective, why would you want too? Stick them in decorative box, jar or other such thingy and display as useful art.
6. Second shower curtain rod: This is actually a very good idea and although it wouldn't work in my en suite (because the shower is a little less than 3' square and we're tall (I'm 5'11, my husband is 6'3)) in our small main bath, it might - but keep in mind that it still could be a slip hazard and a head bumping hazard (that's my inner safety representative speaking).
7. Shelf above door: Although in principle, this isn't a terrible idea, depending on the location of the door, this may not work or would throw off the symmetry of the room. Our door is mounted less than 2" from the wall so although I could place a shelf above it it may make the room appear lopsided. Furthermore, my door is 80" AFF, thus leaving only 16" for storage (assuming you've got 8' ceilings like me). I like the idea of storing my rolled towels up there, however, but I dislike dusting so I'm not sure I'd store anything that needed dusting.
8. Create a Focal Point: This is a design concept that I've seen applied to bathrooms before and I think if your bathroom is of the right size, it would be fine to use (but not TWO focal points like the bathroom illustrated has - the 60's inspired mirrored sunburst and the vase on the table with the sticks in it - OH and what about the door the table is blocking? May we not need into that space at some point?) But I digress... In my 60 sq. ft. bare bones en suite, it would not. Anything that didn't belong in a bathroom or wasn't 100% necessary has very little point being in the room in the first place. I am not a fru-fru designer, however, so maybe it's just me. I dislike 'accessories' and stuff that needs maintenance. This is why I work in institutional design.
This is a long list so I'm going to end it here this week but do check back next week as I continue through the list and sort out reality from fantasy of the "Lifehacks" article. Thanks for stopping in!
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
We-Design-Day: The Foyer Project
With the planning done for our basement renovation, I suppose it's time to move onto the next project waiting in the wings... A couple weeks ago, my husband suggested we look at doing the back entry way next. He wanted to rehang the handrail that fell down two to five years ago (it's been down long enough that neither of us can remember when it came down and we stowed it in the laundry room).
This week, I’ve been exploring the different things to do to our entry way in order to complete the renovation to it as soon as possible. There are a few things I’ve looked at since moving into our home and one of them was this area. It’s a small, tight area that always seems to collect everything (especially dirt) and never has enough storage space for all those things one needs when leaving the house. Our back door houses leashes, dog treats, shoes, coats, winter apparel, toys, bags, summer products (sunscreen, bug spray, bubbles, sidewalk chalk). It truly is a ‘catch all’ for everything and as it stands presently, it isn’t working.
I did do some extensive cleaning and purging a year ago. I incorporated storage bins and recycled some of TroubleMaker’s Lego-like bins. This does work; however, because we have so much stuff, it isn’t easy to access any of it. A bin for hats, dog stuff, our winter gear, TroubleMaker’s winter gear, and helmets is just too cumbersome and problematic, especially when rushing out of the house in a panic.
We have too many coats and shoes – even with seasonal rotation so we need a way to store more in less space.
The plan (in no order):
Remove the bar and install coat hooks
Build a shoe storage rack with a bench on one side with extra shoe cubbies up to beneath shelf
Paint the area, repaint hand rail/balustrades
Install & pain wainscoting along South wall
Replace baseboards
Repair stairs (we have some loose nosings)
Repair & Replace handrails
Install new light fixture
Key storage
Leash storage
Purse storage (I’m always misplacing my purse in the house – I’d like to keep it at the back door)
Replace door
Replace door casings
Repair weather stripping on door
Repair screen and window on storm door
Create studio wall on West wall down stair well
Repair walls
Install door stop
It’s a long list – my husband didn’t want to replace the door but I think we should. To me, it’s like doing half the job but it’s still up in the air as the door is in reasonable condition. The light fixture has been on our ‘to do’ list for years. We seriously dislike all the light fixtures in the house but cost has prevented us from doing them all. I also think this is the kind of thing one must do all at once because if you don’t, you run the risk of not being able to get the companion or coordinating pieces later when your budget allows. I’ve also not found much I like… Or when I do, they don't have fixtures suitable for the several lights we have in close proximity to one another.
I’m a simple person and I like clean lines and not a lot of fuss but I like a lot of light in this area and that’s a big bill to fit for our budget. The area has very high ceilings (16’) so I need a large fixture to adequately fill the space and not have it dwarfed (in scale) to the large area it’s hanging in. What we have now is terrible (80’s brass and plastic danglies) and as a result, it doesn’t get cleaned, repaired or even looked at but now is the time to address it – but with what, is the problem.
The colour scheme will be carried throughout the house and I find this the most daunting of tasks because I have to make the ‘right’ choice, not knowing what’s in store for the adjacent areas. The next project will be enclosing the studio but after that we are looking at the kitchen – which is the first space you see when you come up from the foyer. It has to pull the space together but I have to ‘match’ it to the cupboards and I do not think we’ll be replacing them but refinishing them (a job I swore I’d never, ever do again after refacing the cabinets in our condo).
I love colour but I have reservations about applying it in my own home and always tend to lean towards a very neutral, bland pallet. This is in part to ensure harmony between my husband and I but also because I fear picking the ‘wrong’ colour. Being a designer often has it’s challenges – like being under scrutiny by those who come to your home expecting design perfection.
But I’m tired of the horrible blue we’ve had for seven years. I’m ready for change, I’m ready for different, I’m ready for bold! Come back next week and I’ll reveal the back entrance makeover!
This week, I’ve been exploring the different things to do to our entry way in order to complete the renovation to it as soon as possible. There are a few things I’ve looked at since moving into our home and one of them was this area. It’s a small, tight area that always seems to collect everything (especially dirt) and never has enough storage space for all those things one needs when leaving the house. Our back door houses leashes, dog treats, shoes, coats, winter apparel, toys, bags, summer products (sunscreen, bug spray, bubbles, sidewalk chalk). It truly is a ‘catch all’ for everything and as it stands presently, it isn’t working.
I did do some extensive cleaning and purging a year ago. I incorporated storage bins and recycled some of TroubleMaker’s Lego-like bins. This does work; however, because we have so much stuff, it isn’t easy to access any of it. A bin for hats, dog stuff, our winter gear, TroubleMaker’s winter gear, and helmets is just too cumbersome and problematic, especially when rushing out of the house in a panic.
We have too many coats and shoes – even with seasonal rotation so we need a way to store more in less space.
The plan (in no order):
Remove the bar and install coat hooks
Build a shoe storage rack with a bench on one side with extra shoe cubbies up to beneath shelf
Paint the area, repaint hand rail/balustrades
Install & pain wainscoting along South wall
Replace baseboards
Repair stairs (we have some loose nosings)
Repair & Replace handrails
Install new light fixture
Key storage
Leash storage
Purse storage (I’m always misplacing my purse in the house – I’d like to keep it at the back door)
Replace door
Replace door casings
Repair weather stripping on door
Repair screen and window on storm door
Create studio wall on West wall down stair well
Repair walls
Install door stop
It’s a long list – my husband didn’t want to replace the door but I think we should. To me, it’s like doing half the job but it’s still up in the air as the door is in reasonable condition. The light fixture has been on our ‘to do’ list for years. We seriously dislike all the light fixtures in the house but cost has prevented us from doing them all. I also think this is the kind of thing one must do all at once because if you don’t, you run the risk of not being able to get the companion or coordinating pieces later when your budget allows. I’ve also not found much I like… Or when I do, they don't have fixtures suitable for the several lights we have in close proximity to one another.
I’m a simple person and I like clean lines and not a lot of fuss but I like a lot of light in this area and that’s a big bill to fit for our budget. The area has very high ceilings (16’) so I need a large fixture to adequately fill the space and not have it dwarfed (in scale) to the large area it’s hanging in. What we have now is terrible (80’s brass and plastic danglies) and as a result, it doesn’t get cleaned, repaired or even looked at but now is the time to address it – but with what, is the problem.
The colour scheme will be carried throughout the house and I find this the most daunting of tasks because I have to make the ‘right’ choice, not knowing what’s in store for the adjacent areas. The next project will be enclosing the studio but after that we are looking at the kitchen – which is the first space you see when you come up from the foyer. It has to pull the space together but I have to ‘match’ it to the cupboards and I do not think we’ll be replacing them but refinishing them (a job I swore I’d never, ever do again after refacing the cabinets in our condo).
I love colour but I have reservations about applying it in my own home and always tend to lean towards a very neutral, bland pallet. This is in part to ensure harmony between my husband and I but also because I fear picking the ‘wrong’ colour. Being a designer often has it’s challenges – like being under scrutiny by those who come to your home expecting design perfection.
But I’m tired of the horrible blue we’ve had for seven years. I’m ready for change, I’m ready for different, I’m ready for bold! Come back next week and I’ll reveal the back entrance makeover!
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
We-Design-Day: Project Design Boards
This week, I want to show you a set of complete design board from my final project at design school. I scored very high on this project (my recollection is 98%) – it was a combination of good design, adhering to the clients “Wish List”, a strong presentation, eye catching theme and striking design boards. This is one of my key portfolio pieces – although I’ve worked on commercial, residential and institutional projects since my graduation, this project is still one of the highlights of my career as a designer. Perhaps it was because I’m very outdoorsy and I “clicked” with the project (Jasper National Park is my second home) or because I truly believed in what I presented. For me, it captures the intent of creating an accurate and realistic portrayal of Jasper 400 kilometers away in an airport terminal.
Revisiting these boards, there are a couple things I’d change – mostly, it was in the presentation. First, if I could do it over, I’d change the title block. My lines around the board aren’t all even (which really bugs me now) and I’d include my updated logo. I think I’d also upgrade the finishes, however, I do recall being limited to what was in Sample Library at my college. I think I’d also remount the menu – the interior isn’t captured here – the interior is linen paper with torn edges that I carefully stained to present an antique look replicating what kind of menu may have been available 100 years ago at the Jasper Park Lodge.
That said; let’s go through the boards and explain what each one is and why it's important to a project.
Floor Finish Plan: There are various types of flooring used in a commercial space, all of which must be durable, resilient and aesthetically pleasing. Transitions should be seamless and it’s important to get the flow correct from space to space.
Furniture Layout: I had a programme that defined how many seats they needed. The client also expressed a desire for different groupings, enclosed/private rooms, bar seating and a ‘dining’ zone as well as a more formal, longer stay dining area.
Reflected Ceiling Plan: This included architectural design with transition and elevation changes coupled with fixed ceilings and dropped ceilings. I also had to add mechanical components (return and supply air, fire and safety) and electrical details – lighting (ambient, task and accent) and communications systems.
Elevations: Elevations are flat, two dimension drawings that further work to illustrate your design. Again, this can all be CAD generated and now, CAD rendered too. They can be further tweaked with other graphic software too (Illustrator comes to mind). They are an important tool for helping your Client realize and understand your proposal. I have two boards in this project with elevations and I even snuck on an extra perspective drawing. If I recall, part of the reason was the river stone ceiling – my prof wanted “proof of concept” – she needed to make sure what I was proposing was feasible and wouldn’t look “weird”. With new faux-stones, it is a very real and plausible application.
Design Tip: Think outside normal – that’s how trends are built.
Perspectives: This where your design can “pop” and sell itself. All the finish boards and floor plans can’t sell your design like a three dimensional image. Frankly, I’ve done better perspectives than these – drawing isn’t really my forte but they were strong enough to “sell” the concept. Now, with CAD and great 3D modeling programs, doing things “by hand” are virtually a thing of the past. However, the know-how of hand drawing perspectives or isometrics is invaluable if you are trying to help a client understand something on the on the spot. A quick 3D sketch in a notebook can finalize a Client’s understanding of your concept.
Fixtures: This is where you are making your design concrete. Here you want to illustrate real, available products or concept sketches to have millwork fabricated. If you can’t find it – design it – but make sure your budget will allow for the special costs of creating a “one of”.
Finishes: These are the most commonly seen and used boards in interior design and interior decorating. This board is valuable in the sense that it provides the Client with a touchable product. Many people are very tactile and having this available to them is important. Most of the government projects I’ve worked on develop three of these – one for the client, the property manager and one for the architect who uses it to specify the finishes to the trades people.
Other: Depending on the project, you may be asked to do anything from logo creation to menu design. I've done merchandising for a couple of projects - do only what your are comfortable undertaking and know when it's best to refer the Client to another professional.
If you'd like to see the boards in more detail, I've created a slide show of the larger photographs of the boards. Just click below to take it to a full screen image.
A big thank you to my husband who photographed the boards for me! Images and the work contained on the boards are protected by Copyright. No reproductions or recreation of the work should be done without consent of Blue Door Interiors Inc. or Blackstone Images Ltd.
Revisiting these boards, there are a couple things I’d change – mostly, it was in the presentation. First, if I could do it over, I’d change the title block. My lines around the board aren’t all even (which really bugs me now) and I’d include my updated logo. I think I’d also upgrade the finishes, however, I do recall being limited to what was in Sample Library at my college. I think I’d also remount the menu – the interior isn’t captured here – the interior is linen paper with torn edges that I carefully stained to present an antique look replicating what kind of menu may have been available 100 years ago at the Jasper Park Lodge.
That said; let’s go through the boards and explain what each one is and why it's important to a project.
Floor Finish Plan: There are various types of flooring used in a commercial space, all of which must be durable, resilient and aesthetically pleasing. Transitions should be seamless and it’s important to get the flow correct from space to space.
Furniture Layout: I had a programme that defined how many seats they needed. The client also expressed a desire for different groupings, enclosed/private rooms, bar seating and a ‘dining’ zone as well as a more formal, longer stay dining area.
Reflected Ceiling Plan: This included architectural design with transition and elevation changes coupled with fixed ceilings and dropped ceilings. I also had to add mechanical components (return and supply air, fire and safety) and electrical details – lighting (ambient, task and accent) and communications systems.
Elevations: Elevations are flat, two dimension drawings that further work to illustrate your design. Again, this can all be CAD generated and now, CAD rendered too. They can be further tweaked with other graphic software too (Illustrator comes to mind). They are an important tool for helping your Client realize and understand your proposal. I have two boards in this project with elevations and I even snuck on an extra perspective drawing. If I recall, part of the reason was the river stone ceiling – my prof wanted “proof of concept” – she needed to make sure what I was proposing was feasible and wouldn’t look “weird”. With new faux-stones, it is a very real and plausible application.
Design Tip: Think outside normal – that’s how trends are built.
Perspectives: This where your design can “pop” and sell itself. All the finish boards and floor plans can’t sell your design like a three dimensional image. Frankly, I’ve done better perspectives than these – drawing isn’t really my forte but they were strong enough to “sell” the concept. Now, with CAD and great 3D modeling programs, doing things “by hand” are virtually a thing of the past. However, the know-how of hand drawing perspectives or isometrics is invaluable if you are trying to help a client understand something on the on the spot. A quick 3D sketch in a notebook can finalize a Client’s understanding of your concept.
Fixtures: This is where you are making your design concrete. Here you want to illustrate real, available products or concept sketches to have millwork fabricated. If you can’t find it – design it – but make sure your budget will allow for the special costs of creating a “one of”.
Finishes: These are the most commonly seen and used boards in interior design and interior decorating. This board is valuable in the sense that it provides the Client with a touchable product. Many people are very tactile and having this available to them is important. Most of the government projects I’ve worked on develop three of these – one for the client, the property manager and one for the architect who uses it to specify the finishes to the trades people.
Other: Depending on the project, you may be asked to do anything from logo creation to menu design. I've done merchandising for a couple of projects - do only what your are comfortable undertaking and know when it's best to refer the Client to another professional.
If you'd like to see the boards in more detail, I've created a slide show of the larger photographs of the boards. Just click below to take it to a full screen image.
A big thank you to my husband who photographed the boards for me! Images and the work contained on the boards are protected by Copyright. No reproductions or recreation of the work should be done without consent of Blue Door Interiors Inc. or Blackstone Images Ltd.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
We-Design-Day: Practical Theory Week #2
This week, we're going to look at two more design principles: proportions and scale. Both principles express concepts of size and magnitude and both serve an important function in design.
IV.Proportion
It is often easier to cite examples of badly thought out proportion. If you think architecturally, we often see huge "McMansions" placed on tiny city lots. Additionally, have you ever driven through an older area of your city and noticed small post-war style homes "re-invented" with additions or second storeys that clearly don't work with the existing structure. Furthermore, over sized furnishings in a small room do nothing but create clutter and a sense of 'small'. When selecting furniture, one must clearly understand that although the piece is really comfortable and 'just the right size' for a person (thinking of overstuffed furniture or California King sized beds) proportionately, a Cali King bed in a 10'x12' room will dominate and overwhelm the space.
Interior, usually most people aren't attracted to using all of one colour or pattern but proportion should be applied and carefully thought out so no one things (be it colour, texture, or object) overwhelms the space.
V.Scale
Special consideration can be given when designing children's rooms or seniors centres to ensure that the furnishings and rooms are scaled to their special need & size!
We're on the home stretch of the principles now! Next week, we'll finish them up and then move forward and get back into working with our projects.
Further reading:
Architectural Proportion (Wikipedia)
Photo Flash Graphics
IV.Proportion
- a.In a design setting, it can refers to the visual proportion - relating to the use of colours, patterns and textures. Too much of any one thing can dominate a space and overwhelm it negatively.
b.It also refers to the classical architecture terminology - defining the relationship of the parts to the other parts or to the relationship of the parts to the whole. For interior design, it can be applied to the relative size and scale of the various elements in a design.
It is often easier to cite examples of badly thought out proportion. If you think architecturally, we often see huge "McMansions" placed on tiny city lots. Additionally, have you ever driven through an older area of your city and noticed small post-war style homes "re-invented" with additions or second storeys that clearly don't work with the existing structure. Furthermore, over sized furnishings in a small room do nothing but create clutter and a sense of 'small'. When selecting furniture, one must clearly understand that although the piece is really comfortable and 'just the right size' for a person (thinking of overstuffed furniture or California King sized beds) proportionately, a Cali King bed in a 10'x12' room will dominate and overwhelm the space.
Interior, usually most people aren't attracted to using all of one colour or pattern but proportion should be applied and carefully thought out so no one things (be it colour, texture, or object) overwhelms the space.
V.Scale
- a.Scale works hand in hand with proportion. In design (architecture or interior) scale specifically compares the size of an object or an environment to a human being. Anything used or applied in an interior should be compared to a person to ensure it's scale isn't overwhelming or dominating. Scale should suit the occupants, as well as the space.
Special consideration can be given when designing children's rooms or seniors centres to ensure that the furnishings and rooms are scaled to their special need & size!
We're on the home stretch of the principles now! Next week, we'll finish them up and then move forward and get back into working with our projects.
Further reading:
Architectural Proportion (Wikipedia)
Photo Flash Graphics
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
We-Design-Day - Practical Theory!
Last week, we looked at design composition and the elements of design. The elements are generally applied using the principles of design – this week’s topic.
There are eight principles. We’ll look at each one closely as they can be invaluable resources when planning your space. I’m going to list them ‘laundry’ style and then we’ll work through them individually.
I.Balance
II.Rhythm
III.Emphasis
I’m going to end this week with that. The principles are an important area and deserve time to digest and comprehend the material. Next week, we’re going to look at Proportion and Scale – two principles that often get neglected when planning a space.
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or send me an email. Thanks for stopping by and see you for next week’s We-Design-Day!
There are eight principles. We’ll look at each one closely as they can be invaluable resources when planning your space. I’m going to list them ‘laundry’ style and then we’ll work through them individually.
I. Balance
II. Rhythm
III.Emphasis
IV.Proportion
V.Scale
VI.Unity
VII. Harmony
VIII.Variety
I.Balance
- a.In a design setting, it refers to the visual balance. It relates to the perception of the weight of an object (or objects) in architecture and interiors. Balance can also be more than just physical arrangement. Balance can also mean the balance of the elements of design: balanced texture, line, colour or shape.
b.There are three basic types of balance generally used.
i.Symmetrical or bilateral
1.Described as being equal and in proportion to one another. Most commonly used as it is predominant in our natural environment. We have two arms, two legs, two eyes – and generally, all are similar in size and location (on the body). Often mirror images.
2.In Fig.1, the vases are symmetrically balanced (one on each end of the table, similar distance from the edge and each other).
ii.Asymmetrical
1.Described as being ‘not symmetrical’ – meaning not equal in size or proportion but the pieces work to stabilize one another. Although some things in nature are asymmetrical (Fiddler crab has one claw bigger than the other), our tendency is towards symmetry. Being ‘left’ or ‘right’ handed is also asymmetrical as it’s easier for the brain to ‘train’ one hand rather than both.
Other hints for understanding and employing Asymmetrical balance:
Brightly coloured objects can visually balance a dull colour.
Large objects can be balanced by a grouping of smaller objects
Generally considered “informal”
2.Varying the height and arrangement creates visual interest and definition.
I always find asymmetrical arrangements difficult because they don’t seem natural and can often look contrived and planned.
iii.Radial
1.Most similar to symmetrical balance but has a central point or core from which the elements extend outward.
II.Rhythm
- a.Think of rhythm – what has rhythm? A heart beat, music, the person in the next cube over tapping his pencil. What do they all have in common?
i.Recurrence
1.Repetitive use of materials, form texture or colour.
ii.Regular Intervals
1.Alternating the elements of design (use of curves against stripes)
iii.Organized Movement
1.Progression of movement can draw the eye in a directional sequence – light to dark (colours) or sizing objects small to large.
III.Emphasis
- a.Emphasis in a design context gives variety and uniqueness to an interior by creating focal points or centres of interest. It can be obtained through dominant or subordinate use of forms, colours, textures and lines.
i.Dominant Forms
1.Have the greatest impact
ii.Subordinate Forms
1.Secondary and should coordinate or contrast with the dominant form
b.When selecting the focal point, it’s important to select it carefully and balance it with the other elements.
I’m going to end this week with that. The principles are an important area and deserve time to digest and comprehend the material. Next week, we’re going to look at Proportion and Scale – two principles that often get neglected when planning a space.
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or send me an email. Thanks for stopping by and see you for next week’s We-Design-Day!
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