We-Design-Day: Big Boy Room!

It's been a while since I wrote about working on a plan for my son's "Big Boy Room". For a while (ie over Christmas/holidays) I did not think about it (mostly) or worry about it (even thought my original goal was to get him transitioned to his room before/over Christmas). Now with the new year here, it's time to start thinking about it again and work towards getting the design completed and work on implementing it.

My ideas are all broad and conceptual, but I know I want the room to grow with him as he ages. The room needs to be functional (sleeping, relaxing and double as a "sometimes" guest room), inviting, mature with the ability to be youthful, energetic, edgy and "masculine" but not so much as to take away from the fact it's a child's bedroom.

Typically, when I do design work, I've got worksheets and interviews I conduct but the biggest tool I use is observation. I like to observe people and their things and learn more about them. I can give you magazine perfect, trendy design but if it isn't who the people are, they won't be happy with it and subsequently, neither will I. I know my son pretty well. I know what he likes, what he doesn't like and I kind of know his "style" (as much as a five year old can have a style).

This weekend, I dug out my paint kid and started reviewing my samples looking for greys. I had it in my head that grey tones were they way to go. Black furniture to ground the space and the use of industrial materials (diamond plate metal, various garage/shop accessories/furniture) would give me the look I wanted.

And in my head, it was fabulous, with a Capital "F".



The small swatches of colour looked great and I was in love with the three different combinations I'd put together - I had no idea how I was going to pick just one! Today I pulled out the paint chips and laid them all out.


And I quickly realized that they were in no way reflective of my son. At all.

The idea is concrete and is reflective of him and his likes, it was just my preoccupation with a neutral pallet that got in the way.

Can we agree to make red the new neutral?

Design Tip:

To thine own self be true.

HAHA! I've always wanted to use that on my blog and tada!

In all seriousness, it's very easy to fall in love with something trendy or something you see on TV or in a magazine but if it's not really indicative of your style, you're likely better off to admire the pages of the magazine and focus on figuring out what your style is.

We-Design-Day: Project Start-Up (programming & planning)

My son is five. We co-sleep. He has a "room" - it's the 6'x10' nursery I prepared for him before he was born. It's bright. light and airy and he's only ever slept in the space for a handful of hours since his birth.

The crib only fit in one way (as it's pictured) and to the left (out of the shot) is his dresser. There isn't room for anything else and there isn't a closet in the space. It won't fit a regular bed and has (more or less) become a 'crap storage area' and dressing room for the young sir since we gave away his crib some 3 years ago.

We are readying to move him into his own room - not this room but the 8'x10' room that's beside it. I've tossed around the idea of taking the wall down between the two but my husband is against it - so at this point, the nursery will become his "play room" and the 8'x10' room will become his bedroom.

My design style is 'real design for real people' - I adhere to what I know and I approach every project I undertake pretty methodically. My day job doesn't always allow me the luxury or the ability to program and plan the way I know, thankfully, in most cases, the planning department does this for me but I always (always) need to understand the problem I'm solving, other wise, I don't feel prepared to do my job.

Design Tip: Knowing the question and the answer before you start can be the key to a successful project.

When starting a project, I tend to revert to my process. I've worked on all kinds of projects with all kinds of budgets but my starting point is usually the same. I need to learn about and fully understand the problem (or goal) I'm trying to solve. Doing this allows me to define the answer and work on a solution. Understanding the question helps me evaluate, plan and start planning the solution. I can define the parameters and start scope development. Knowing the goal also helps me make changes "on the fly" too - sometimes, on paper, what looks great and functional, isn't and I need to be able to fully know the goal so I can make changes and adjustment where needed.

In the case of the new "big boy" bedroom, my goal is a flexible, adaptable bedroom space that will grow with my son and his life. There are also challenges - it's a small room, it is our 'spare' room where out of town guests stay and it has two exterior walls.

This week, I'm going to use my "interview sheet" to help me work out some details. It will help bring the goal into focus, allow me to evaluate, get my son's input and give me a 'working document' to launch into more detailed programming with.

Thanks for reading, as always, let me know if you have any questions!

We-Design-Day (on Thursday): How to NOT Hire a Company (for work on your house) When You're a Girl (or boy)

In my day job, I'm a project coordinator working for a large educational institution. I manage and oversee renovation and construction projects that are primarily completed by our own, on-staff Trades (electricians, plumbers, carpenters, etc). I also manage the same kind of projects done by external contractors (usually general contractors who bring any number of trades along for the ride). I have been doing this since 2004 (in addition to design, facility and telecommunications management).

Over the course of nine years, I'm managed many projects. From $2000 office refreshes to multi-million dollar new building builds. Generally, short of nearly blowing up one building and flooding part of another, they go off without a hitch. I've learned to always add a minimum of 20% contingency to EVERYTHING, add 8 to 12 weeks to every schedule (and always do it in weeks, MONTHS seem longer to the client) and always, always consult a professional when dealing with:

1. Electricity

2. Plumbing/mechanical

3. Structural issues

(Lesson One: Always know when to call in a professional)

There is one thing, however, I've not perfected the art of and that's being taken seriously in this industry, because I'm a girl. I've got cajones the size of Michigan when I need them and I can talk trash with the best of them, but I've continually run into "issues", I think, because I'm a women in a male dominated field.

I've been called an inferior designer in the middle of a site walk through (no, his firm did not get the job), I've not had calls returned when I'm inviting contractors to bid on a job (but suddenly, when a male coworker called them on the same job, they showed up) and I've had contractors out-right LIE about conversations I've had witnesses too (Lesson Two: always have witnesses).

Thankfully, at my present place of work, I have 1000% support from my senior management and the guys I work with. The support came easily and with the clause "if anyone gives your trouble (implying I may run into trouble because I'm a girl) let us know if you can't work it out." I didn't (have trouble) and I will deal with all things on my own. Always... In my personal life and work, I struggle. All. The. Damn. Time. 

In 2011, we decided we needed to have our roof replaced. I began calling companies in May - by July, not one of the four I called, returned my calls. I called another three companies. Two finally provided quotes and one of the first four had also finally decided I was worthy and also gave me quote. (For the record, one of the 'first four' returned my call this spring - two years later. Turns out they aren't so busy any more and are looking for work)

Seven companies and three quotes later, September was on the doorstep and we really needed a new roof before winter. The company had done our neighbours so without checking additional references, we hired them because they could get it done before October. I went against EVERYTHING I know I should when hiring a contractor. (Lesson Three: Never hire ANY company without checking their licensing and insurance, without interviewing them AND without calling a minimum of three references)

In addition to replacing our roof, we also wanted our eavestroughs replaced. None of the roofing contractors who did show up "did" eavestrough work.

Last summer, I called six eavestrough companies in hopes of getting a quote in a more timely fashion.

Guess what?

It didn't happen. Not one returned my call and the one who provided a "site unseen" quote via email (based only on the square footages of the house and garage) refused to return my calls and emails when I asked him to come to site for a more 'firm' quote.

So again, in May this year, I started the search. Again. I called one company May 12, 2013. He GUARANTEED me they would show up.

They didn't.

I called them back June 14. I was told they had the request but no one knew why it wasn't done. I was assured I was being 'prioritized' and someone would be out "as soon as possible" - intimating it would be done in a couple of weeks, at most.

July 9th, as I was preparing to call them AGAIN, I get a call asking if I would still be interested in getting a quote from them.  Now, I will sing out the praises of receptionists. I was less than pleasant when I called back and she was very professional, even when I was not.

The same week, I put a complaint out on Facebook about how being a girl SUCKS. My aunt gave me a number of a guy she knows who did hers. Apparently, the wife of the guy grew up down the road from my (paternal) grandparent's farm.

I called him and emailed one other company. If you're good at math, you've now deduced that I've called/contacted nine different eavestroughing companies.

By the end of the next weekend, I had three quotes, in hand (well, two, technically, my aunt's friend just gave us a price 'at the door' (again, folks, DON'T DO THIS. Always, always get a firm, written down quote with each item itemized. ALWAYS)). (Lesson Four: Always get an itemized quote)

Before my aunt's friend left, we hired him. No contract, no paper quote, just a "PLEASE DO THIS JOB, I'M DESPERATE TO NOT HAVE MY EAVES OVERFLOW AND FLOOD DURING ALL THE TORRENTIAL DOWNPOURS. AND PLEASE DO IT BEFORE WINTER."

(Lesson Five: Always have a contract, again itemizing EVERYTHING, with prices, contingency, holdbacks, EVERYTHING)

(Lesson Six: Don't let desperation get in the way)

I should have taken all three quotes, checked references, double checked references, seen the work they had done, checked the Better Business Bureau, interviewed the company and taken a few days to think it over. But I didn't. I was tired, I was desperate and I was so thankful that I finally had something to work with, I panicked, not wanting to let another contractor get away without hiring him.

Four days later, the company we'd hired showed up - well, the guy (it was a one man show, which is fine, but I didn't know that). he did the job in a day and my house has lovely, new, not leaky, not overflowing, eaves. It worked out okay. This time. I was lucky. Very lucky.

Let's recap what we've learned from my mistakes:

Lesson One: Always know when to call in a professional

Lesson Two: always have witnesses

Lesson Three: Never hire ANY company without interviewing them AND without calling a minimum of three references

Lesson Four: Always get an itemized quote

Lesson Five: Always have a contract, again itemizing EVERYTHING, with prices, contingency, holdbacks, EVERYTHING

Lesson Six: Don't let desperation get in the way

Even as a trained professional, I can't always get what I need done. Is it because I'm woman? I don't know, I really don't, but in the coming weeks, I'm going to share the right way to do all the things I did wrong. Step by step and I'll even include "the desperate woman's mantra" on how to let that contractor walk away, unhired, even if he's muscly, manly hotness in Carhartt's.

We-Design-Day: Designing and Debunking Part Two

Picking up from last weeks Designing and Debunking, let's finish the Buzzfeed's "15 Lifehacks for your Tiny Bathroom" .

9. Use a stacked plate rack: My counter is too small to support more than a toothbrush stand and a bottle of hand soap. I would think that most truly small bathrooms would suffer the same problem.

10. Magnet board for makeup: I don't have room. I also don't have that much makeup. If you do, be my guest! I can see it being a focal point and a space save and art, all in one!

11. Mason jar wall storage: I could see using this but I would use it for holding toothbrushes and toothpaste (to get them off the counter). The cotton swabs and cotton pads would still sit in their respective containers in the baskets under the sink.

12. Use a large mirror to reflect the space: Mirrors are often used to help create the illusion of space and this is a valid design tip. Keep in mind the scale of the room when selecting the mirror. Having a 4' mirror hung in my small bathroom would be too much and would make me see all the ugly bits I try so purposefully to avoid. I would, instead, use small mirrors on the wall opposite of the vanity mirror to reflect the space (it wouldn't work in my space, this would assume that the two walls would be opposite and not behind other obstructions). One could also use several small mirrors, framed perhaps, as art as well as using them to create the illusion of space.

13. Roll your Towels: I don't actually store my towels in this bathroom because there is truly no room for them. If I did have room, I still wouldn't roll them, I don't like how they don't roll perfectly. I like the idea of rolling hand towels of face cloths for immediate use (again, I don't have room for this but have considered using this in my kitchen).

14. Install pull-out drawers in your cabinets: I like this suggestion, it is valid, assuming your cabinets will accommodate it. Keep in mind, these pull out style drawers will eat up valuable real estate in the cabinet itself. Although it looks flush mount, they typically are not, additionally, they need to be able to retract back far enough for the door to close. I personally use baskets in mine and find this works well. There are also "other" things you need to store under the sink (like the toilet brush).

15. Install multiple towel bars on back of door: Most interior passage doors are hollow core and may not support a sufficient amount of weight to actually hold up against the use. This would also mean folding your towels into 'airing cupboard' size after each use; this slows down the air drying ability because there are more layers of towel. I would opt for hooks or an 'over the door' system. IF you use an OTD system, keep in mind that in places with fluctuating humidity, this may make your door impossible to close. We have one (I bought for our housecoats) and it only works on one door in our entire house.

I realize it is highly unlikely that anyone will run out and actually apply all of the hints in the BuzzFeed article but I wanted to point out why it's so important to not just decorate a space. Design is so much more than paint colours and throw cushions. Always think of the principals of design before tackling any project!

We-Design-Day: Designing for your life (and debunking bad design)

Since being laid up sick since last summer, I've not done much design or DIY work but I have been reading a fair amount and I am continually amazed at some of the "want to be design" advice I see being circulated.


Now, it is no secret that I am a firm believer in marrying 'ability' with education. To be able to be called an interior designer, one must meet a strict set of educational and practical experience requirements. Many (most) of the popular articles, tips and such are being shared by decorators (not designers); decorators have a very valid place in the architectural world and I've worked with many good ones. I am about the technical side of interior design so often pairing my technical ability with a decorator is a good fit because interior styling isn't really my forte. Who does it bug? Mostly us designer types and poor unsuspecting people who hire designers but whose renovations fall short or expectations or fail to meet legal requirements.

That said, one of the other obvious signs of this is seeing articles like this one (pinned all over Pinterest) giving "Fifteen Lifehacks for Your Tiny Bathroom".

Now, it should be revealed that I have a tiny bathroom. A really, tiny, tiny bathroom. The en suite on our master bedroom measures an enormous 6'x10'. In this space, we have a small vanity, toilet and stall shower. It is the kind of bathroom that two people cannot be in (but in all honestly, I don't want to share the bathroom with my husband). There isn't wall space for art, towel bars or towel storage. Like I said, two people are hard pressed to fit in the space. We can't open the shower stall door without bumping the wall and if you lean to your left while seated on the toilet, you'll hit your head on the wall.

Looking at the pictures of this article, which I realize are meant to be applied to your own tiny bathroom and may actually only be suggested so that you can try to apply them in a small space, the bathrooms are huge, thus negating any potential credibility the article may have had. Some of the comments reflect that. To me, design, and sharing design, needs to be taught and shown in the light in which it's meant to be applied. This is how I approach design and I know not everyone does.

I can also tell you that a few of the suggestions put forth would not work in a small bathroom. Below is my unbiased, unsolicited opinion. (Number corresponds with the number in the article - the 'hacks' are applied to my own TINY en suite bath).

1. Apply a frame to a basic mirror: This wouldn't work in my small bath for two reasons: The first is it is a medicine cabinet (to provide a tiny bit of storage) and the second is because even if it was a flat mount mirror, the clearance around it wouldn't allow for more than a 1" wide "frame" and would end up throwing the proportion and scale of the space off by trying to crowd too many things into a small space.

2. Spice racks for holding necessities: Another "no go" because the I'd be forever banging my elbow on them and they'd interfere with the opening/closing of the medicine cabinet.

3. Coat hooks for towels: While this is a good suggestion, a small bathroom likely won't have the wall space to make the piece pictured actually work. There is only one wall where this *may* work in our en suite however the risk of me hitting my head on it every time I flipped my head over to put my towel on my head is higher and I wouldn't do it.

4. Use small storage solutions: This was one of the things that inspired me to write this. Go take a look at the picture again and tell me if it will work. Understanding spatial relationships is a very big part of interior design. You'd never close the door - the little do-dads hanging on the door would bang into the crap sitting on the shelf (and likely the shelves themselves). The eyeliners - the door won't even close! There is less than 1/4 clearance between the door and the shelf... There is a reason medicine cabinets don't already have these kinds of things in place. Also, many of the doors used in bathrooms aren't metal - because you know, metal rusts when exposed to really damp conditions. Sticky strips might work to adhere them though, if you don't mind not closing your cabinet door.

5. Bobby pin strip: This would work. But from a purely aesthetic perspective, why would you want too? Stick them in decorative box, jar or other such thingy and display as useful art.

6. Second shower curtain rod: This is actually a very good idea and although it wouldn't work in my en suite (because the shower is a little less than 3' square and we're tall (I'm 5'11, my husband is 6'3)) in our small main bath, it might - but keep in mind that it still could be a slip hazard and a head bumping hazard (that's my inner safety representative speaking).

7. Shelf above door: Although in principle, this isn't a terrible idea, depending on the location of the door, this may not work or would throw off the symmetry of the room. Our door is mounted less than 2" from the wall so although I could place a shelf above it it may make the room appear lopsided. Furthermore, my door is 80" AFF, thus leaving only 16" for storage (assuming you've got 8' ceilings like me). I like the idea of storing my rolled towels up there, however, but I dislike dusting so I'm not sure I'd store anything that needed dusting.

8. Create a Focal Point: This is a design concept that I've seen applied to bathrooms before and I think if your bathroom is of the right size, it would be fine to use (but not TWO focal points like the bathroom illustrated has - the 60's inspired mirrored sunburst and the vase on the table with the sticks in it - OH and what about the door the table is blocking? May we not need into that space at some point?) But I digress... In my 60 sq. ft. bare bones en suite, it would not. Anything that didn't belong in a bathroom or wasn't 100% necessary has very little point being in the room in the first place. I am not a fru-fru designer, however, so maybe it's just me. I dislike 'accessories' and stuff that needs maintenance. This is why I work in institutional design.

This is a long list so I'm going to end it here this week but do check back next week as I continue through the list and sort out reality from fantasy of the "Lifehacks" article. Thanks for stopping in!

We-Design Day! Trending 2013

It's been a very long time since I've written a We-Design day post. So much has been going on personally, that it just doesn't seem like I've had time to dedicate to my love of design. With a new year, I'd like to try writing about design and sharing my passions.

Today, I'd like to talk trends. Each year, see trends evolve. Often it starts in runway fashion (colours, styles, textures) and it morphs into interior design. The fluidity of fashion has changed how interior design can be approached. Decorating a house in a certain style used to be the norm. Due to the cost of large furniture pieces, typically, decorating would be done and left in that same style for years (and years and years).

That's not a certainty anymore! A large swing towards mixing styles, purchasing "big ticket" pieces that are timeless and applying the use of colour, changeable accessories and accents pieces to aid in the feel of having a trendy interior without committing to the same style for 20 years.

So what's hot for 2013? Some of the same things that were big in 2012.

Chevron patterns continues to be used, in art, wall and floor coverings and textiles. It is a simple idea to incorporate into any space but use it sparingly; too much of a good thing can overwhelm and easily dominate a space. There are lots of easy, quick and inexpensive DIY projects across the internet that will allow you to incorporate this trend easily and in a disposable fashion.

The use of ombre patterns is also gaining in popularity.  It's a simple technique that again is covered at length in DIY projects on the Internet. A simple sewing project would be to get some fabric dye, wet some plain cotton fabric and dip in the dye, allowing it to creep up the fabric. Once dry, a few simple seams would allow you to make a quick and easy slip cover for a preformed pillow.

The hot finish for 2013 is dulled down bronzes, golds and brass. From light fixtures to furniture to door knobs, it looks like rich, opulent gold is becoming king! I'm personally not keen on this finish but simply because it is trendy doesn't mean you have to jump on the bandwagon.

How do you feel about animal motifs? Owls, foxes and squirrels seem to be very fashionable and very trendy this year. Like with all good things, less is more! An owl, a fox or a squirrel will be plenty! Other birds are big too - small, dainty accessories (perhaps in burnished gold).

Top colour choice? Emerald! I love green and emerald (and variations there of) are fantastic way to add visual interest and punch to any space.

Remember, design is part style but it's also part personal taste. You should be the biggest influence in your design choices!

We-Design-Day: The Evaluation

This week, I've got my document started! Having never done one for a home before, it's a big job. I'm still working on the format and as I move my field notes. I'm finding that I may end up doing it by room instead of by discipline.

Here is a link to the spreadsheet!

Blue Door Interiors Home Evaluation Spreadsheet

While doing my research, I found a couple of good resources that share the average life expectancy of various parts of your home.

Svistun Inspections

National Home Builders Association

I hope this information helps you get moving forward! I'll be working on this over the summer but I'm hoping to get back into design projects in the next week! With home improvement season approaching, I need get moving! Thanks for stopping by today and see you again soon!

We-Design-Day: Checking in!

How is your study going? Mine kind of got stalled... My husband occasionally works out of town and last week, he was gone and took my computer... And I ended up working last Wednesday putting a project schedule together for a grant submission.

With summer approaching and projects needing to be addressed, I really need to get this put together!

While trimming our cedars in front of the master bedroom window, I had a chance to examine the odd insert under the window I mentioned here... It was solid and intact. It is likely just heavy condensation causing the bubbling paint... Good news!

I'm going to continue with my evaluation and get my document together. The next phase is going to be applying numbers and getting a timeline together based on the findings. Remember, the plan is to get the study to the 'living document' phase - where it can be updated and changed as needed to fit your life, the needs of your home and your budget.

Next week, I'm going to share my document and show you how we can start putting this all together.

Thanks for checking in and see you again next week!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Mechanics!

I'm back this week with another part of my study.... How is yours coming along?

Spring is coming up outside, assuming we can keep it from snowing again, and my mind is full of renovation ideas! Knowing that we have deferred maintenance to attend to does help me align my priorities but I can tell you I'd much rather be planning aesthetic components instead of thinking about the plumbing and furnace in my house!

This week, I want to take a look at laundry room, specifically, my big mechanical systems - my furnace, some ducting and our hot water tank are being looked at this week.

The first stop was the hot water tank. This is "new" to the home - we had to replace the hot water tank when it "tanked" in January, 2008. It is a moderately efficient, gas heated unit. We had it installed professionally and it is still in good condition and likely won't need to be addressed for 10 (or more) years.


New chimney and connections were installed as well. I did notice that the unit could really, really use a good dusting... One more thing to add to the housework schedule I've been working on!

Our furnace is original to the house and has been well maintained. It is now approaching 31 years of age and it is one of the things we must look at factoring in to our home study. I am a heat miser so I'd like to think my frugal and deliberate furnace programming has helped to extend the life of the unit but I know even minimal use still causes wear and at 30 years old, I can't expect miracles from the unit. It has a washable filter, thus saving general maintenance costs and the previous owners installed a humidifier when they installed the wood floors.

Again, look at all the stuff in that opening! Colour me surprised - I have no idea what it is (and I've yet to clean it up). Fortunately, our utilities companies do free evaluations of furnaces and check to ensure they are functioning properly. I will be calling late this summer to have ours evaluated and will be scheduling a duct cleaning too. Having the furnace maintenance and the ducts kept clean help the furnace work more efficiently and can work to extend the life of the unit. Furthermore, many government programs have been offering financial rebates for upgrading energy hogs like old furnaces.

In addition to looking at your furnace, you need to check the ducting too. Cold air intakes and the ducts can deteriorate and reduce efficiency (if there are penetrations or disruptions to the ducts or clogged intakes).  Our insulated ducts (the ones that bring cold air in from outside) aren't pretty, but they are functional and in decent shape.

A home evaluation is an involved and detailed process but the information gleaned is invaluable. Thanks for stopping by this week and see you again next week as we start looking at the miles of pipe that take water to and from all over the home!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Starting your study

Keeping up with my plan to document my home evaluation, I started photographing things around the house. I had planned on doing the exterior first, however, when I woke last Sunday, there was snow everywhere and it was still snowing! So I focused my attention indoors!

Doing close-up photography sure goes to show one where the dirt lurks in a house! So please excuse the large and overwhelming dust bunnies running around the pictures!

First, I started off in the master suite looking at the window casings. I was aware that we had some water infiltration in the past, however I had always thought it has been because we'd left the window open in the rain.

If you look (and I hope it translates in this picture) there are streaks down the wall. It would appear, at first glace, that I'd left the window open. The only issue is this is the end that doesn't get opened.




















Then I started examining the wall under the casing and I found evidence of further issue. See that little bitty piece of peeled paint? That, my friends, can be evidence of water damage. finding this did not make me happy. I pushed around and sniffed (don't ask, I have a weird sniffy thing I do). Now I didn't find anything soft or smell anything odd. The sniff test, for the record, is not scientific. But finding the peeled paint and additional bubbling paint indicates to me there may possibly be water infiltration at some point on the window.

I then started looking at the window structure itself and the wood supporting it. I noted it was very dusty (someone should really dust behind the blinds once and a while) and in the corners, years of ground in dirt. We bought our house in 2004 - it was 23 years old at the time and although it had been well maintained, things age naturally. Couple it with the window's northern exposure, the two large spruce trees that shade and shelter the window, the decorative wooden "trim" installed under the window and it can lead to what I'm seeing in the window. The exterior casings are also shown here and you can see that they are moderately weathered but still in reasonable condition. I do believe my 'problem' is the decorative wood piece on the outside. It's been inset in the aluminum siding this providing an easy access point for weather. I know part of it's rotten (from when I repainted it seven years ago) and I'd love to remove it (I'll take a picture of it soon - if it stops snowing at some point this weekend) but I'm not sure what's under and what exposing it would do. So, I'm smart enough to leave it alone (for now, anyway)!

Disheartened, I moved into the ensuite. I already know I've got problems in this room. Firstly, the exhaust fan conked out years ago and oh, it's so necessary in small space! I already knew the shower pan is cracked and we have a humidity problems in the space and a while back, I noticed darkening at the edge of the shower and under the toilet. Both spots indicated a leak of some variety.

I don't like dark marks under places where water is. I'm not necessarily concerned about mould - dangerous mould anyway. However, dark spots like this mean there could be rot and I don't like rot. Rot means more work. One wants to remedy leaks before dark spots appear. I'd like to say that I did this for my science, but it was mostly caused by busy lives, a husband living in a different city, marriage, new baby, new job syndrome. We got busy and didn't have the funds to manage repairs. It happens to everyone and why having a plan in place is so important.

Here is a picture of our window. Other than needing a good cleaning, a coat of paint and an operable ventilation fan, it's in reasonable condition. It does ice up in cold weather (like big chunks of ice - but this usually occurs at minus 30 Celsius).

Our sink and taps were next - the sink is cultured marble and it's horrible. The big black mark is a chip that had been previously repaired and is now deteriorating. The taps are new (we replaced them last fall). I don't like them but we opted to get the cheapest taps available as we were not in a position to properly renovate the ensuite however the taps needed replacing.

Finally, I looked under our sink to check the condition of the pipes. We've got a proper trap and the plumbing is adequate. The water lines are good and show no sign of corrosion, leaks or sweating.

Putting it all together takes effort and energy and time! Having it completed will allow me the ability to properly plan and develop our maintenance and replacement schedule. I hope you've found today's article informative and educational! If you have any questions or if you'd like additional information, feel free to send me an email! Thanks for reading and see you again next week!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Ready, set, GO!

Thanks for checking back in with me! I wanted to take some time to let everything we've covered settle. Not only is this a lot of information to digest, it's a lot to prepare too so I want to make sure I cover the right things and make my documentation and information as thorough as possible. Furthermore, I like to share additional resources and in order to do that, I have to make sure they are valid and correct!

This week, I want to look at how we start to put all the things we've learned together. We know all the parts and the roles they play in our home and now we need to start putting them in a workable format. I like spreadsheets for this – there is software available for things like this – but the flexibility a spreadsheet offers and the ability to expand, adapt and customize it makes it my preferred choice. Before we get there though, we need to ensure we've got a workable document that we can insert our inspection notes and findings and record our evaluations. Additionally, the we need to document conditions with pictures or sketches. This is an essential piece of our report as we need a written record in order to plan our budget and develop a proper project scope.


Design Tip: We need to know what we have in order to define the parameters of our project.

To ease in the development of your scope, I've created a worksheet for you to document your findings. Feel free to print it off and use for your personal home evaluation document. This is the first piece in your "Evaluation Kit".

Tools for your Evaluation:

Home Evaluation Worksheet (direct link to the PDF being hosted on my ScribD account)
Camera
Canadian Wood Frame Construction Book

The book isn't essential but I would highly, highly recommend it for anyone (in Canada, anyway) that does any DIY, home renovation or design work. Having this book when you're hiring a contractor is helpful too. It provides a broad overview of the residential construction process and highlights very important factors that every homeowner should know. It was the “go to” reference guide for me when I was in design school and it is still an industry “go to” guide for practicing architects and designers. If you find a second hand copy, pick it up – the building code changes every few years but most of the fundamentals to wood frame construction remains fairly constant, thus making even an older copy of this book useful.

Once you've printed off the worksheet and have your trusty camera in hand, it's time to go back through your house and look at all the features we've discussed since January! I'll be back next week with the start of my home study to share with you and please feel free to email me any questions you may have about your own study!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - General and Interior Fittings

Thanks for sticking with me during the recent two week hiatus! It's been a little frantic professionally speaking and it's left me exhausted in the evenings when I usually do my writing and research but I'm getting back into the groove. With home renovation season approaching, I want to make sure I've got the bulk of the information shared so we can all work on completing our home evaluation in time for summer!

Having covered all the “big” things that keep our homes up and running we get to look at the “fun” stuff – the things that make our houses our homes. This week we are going to look at the importance the interior fixtures play in our home and how they belong in our home evaluation.

The interior finishes sometimes get overlooked (as being included in a home study) because we do tend to maintain the interiors of our homes more so than the exteriors. It's common for people to paint and upgrade kitchens and bathrooms once they become dated or worn. Innovations in interior design progress frequently and the introduction of new and improved materials to improve the function, increase the energy value or improve the environmental impact are a multimillion dollar industry.

So where does this leave us?

Behind, mostly... But with efficient planning, attention to detail and making informed choices and not always following trends we can steer through the sea of information.

Let's start with the general considerations. Included here are the things “inside” the exterior walls; if you think back to week four the detail showed how our walls look like sandwiches. The batt insulation is the filling, the vapour barrier is our mayonnaise and the gypsum board is our top slice of bread.

Our walls, once installed, are usually mudded and taped. This is to say that a special compound and “tape” is applied to cover the joints, fasteners and corners. It is sanded and a primer is applied to seal the wall board. It is on top of this that we can apply our paint, wall paper or other interior decorative wall finishes. Typically, these interior surfaces are updated frequently, but have you ever not painted for a long time? Paint wears out, just like anything else. All the elements (sun, wind, wet) plus the human factor all abuse and wear the surfaces down exposing the joint compound and allowing the imperfections to show through. It takes longer (as I can attest – seven years in our home and all the screws and joints are starting to show through) but it does happen and like leaving an exposed roof, damage occurs and increases the cost of repair.

Another important aspect to our homes is the floor coverings. They provide comfort, enhance aesthetics and provide sound dampening. Age, flooding and general wear and tear all work to erode the floor surfaces. 

When replacing, cost, allergy factors, environmental concerns and installer ability need to be factored in. Fortunately, these are likely one of the less expensive endeavours you may undertake in your home.

In addition to paint and flooring, the millwork and fixtures in your home will also likely need renewing at some point during your residency. At what point is somewhat subjective. The basic functionality of any kitchen likely won't change but the style of cabinetry, colour of appliances and types of lighting may. This applies to bathroom millwork too.

Sinks, cabinets, appliances – oh my!

Now that we've touched on all the things that we should be looking it, we're going to start pulling it all together over the coming weeks. Thanks for reading this week and please feel free to ask any questions you may have about the topics we've covered this far.

We-Design-Day: Design 101 - A Guide to Interior Design

This article was originally posted in November 2010. With a few renovations coming up around our house, I like to go back to what I know and it's a good refresher!

In conjunction with the changes I’m working on trying to make to my blog, I’ve been working on a couple of serial articles to share. One of which is a regular, weekly feature on interior design. My hope is to provide anyone with an interest a kind of “insider’s look” at small scale design and renovation projects. I’d like to share my knowledge and experience and make it a true ‘how to’ so I can help demystify an interesting and very popular vocation.

My intent is to share some of the history and principals of interior design and work through the process of a project from beginning to end. Having worked in the field for many years, I can provide insight on the construction process, how to hire a designer and general contractor, what to do when things go wrong and how to make changes on the ‘fly’.

So over the coming weeks, my company, Blue Door Interiors, will be sponsoring the “We-Design-Day ” articles and I’ll take you through the entire process of a (small) renovation project from conception to completion. Along the way, I’ll provide some Design 101 education, answer any questions you have, provide free tips and ideas and I’m planning a give-a-way or two as well!

Without further adieu, let’s get We-Design-Day underway!

When I decided to quit my ‘day job’ and return to school, I was 26 years old. I’d spent my late teens and early 20’s in the retail and middle management jobs and I knew that wasn’t what I wanted to do for the rest of my life! I had the good fortune of being able to examine what I wanted to be when I “grew up” – I’d worked in a few different fields, had experience in what I liked (and didn’t like) and got to pick my profession. Most people don’t get that luxury so I am very thankful that my delinquent youth proved to be useful for something!

During my education and work experience, I’ve learned a lot about myself, my tastes, and my design style. I don’t follow fashion and I’m not a follower of trends. I firmly believe that the most appropriate solution for the problems I’ve faced in my career are generally the ones best suited to those who seek them.

And by that I mean it is certainly possible to design for today and accessorize with the latest trends and colours and I certainly can make your home look like the page of a magazine. But coupled with my love for interior design is a love for the environment and blending sustainable design with interior design for me go hand in hand – my first school project taught me that (I specified a compostable toilet, much to the horror of my professor)! I’m about function and form and reusing, reducing and even recycling when designing. We all want our homes to be a reflection of us and the way we live – good design can be attained by combining a good understanding of how a space functions and how the people who use the space live.

I’m about real design for real people.

This week, I’d like to share a few staple pieces of interior design information regarding the history, evolution and some definitions. My first year of design was tough. I’ve never memorized so many things in my life! Included in that memorization was the ‘definition’ of what Interior Design is… It only has changed a little bit from what I memorized and I see I’ve been ahead of my time as they now mention “sustainable design” in the definition.

Interior design is a multi-facet profession in which creative and technical solutions are applied within a structure to achieve a built interior environment. These solutions are functional, enhance the quality of life and culture of the occupants and are aesthetically attractive. Designs are created in response to and coordinated with the building shell and acknowledge the physical location and social context of the project. Designs must adhere to code and regulatory requirements and encourage the principles of environmental sustainability. The interior design process follows a systematic and coordinated methodology, including research, analysis and integration of knowledge into the creative process, whereby the needs and the resources of the client are satisfied to produce and interior space the fulfills the project cools. Interior design includes a scope of services performed by a professional design practitioner, qualified by means of education, experience and examination, to protect and enhance the health, life safety and welfare of the public. Definition provided by the NCIDQ (National Council for Interior Design Qualification) NCIDQ

To find where “interior design” and “interior decoration” started, one must look a long way back in time… One could say it even started when the first people furnished their caves with pelts and painted the walls, although pelts were functional and the paintings area theorized to be everything from trance drawings by Shaman to methods of communication, it still improved the interior living spaces. When the first peoples started building shelter for themselves, it all began to take form. At that time, however, the exterior and the interior were thought of in unison and as “one” space. As we (man) evolved from grass huts, the building envelope (the exterior of the buildings) strongly influenced the interior shape and function of an area.

The common use of the term “Interior Design” was not accepted into popular use until after the Second World War. Prior to the Second World War, and only really dating back to the late 1800’s, the design of an interior was often encapsulated within the architecture of the building as a whole. Any application to interiors was commonly referred to as interior decoration and specifically regarded only the application of surface ornamentation, colour, furnishings and accessories.

After WWII, a divide began to take place between the ornamentation of a space and how the space worked. This split is where the shape of Interior Design truly began to emerge as a valid and respected part of the built environment (and more than just throw pillows and wall paper).

But today, throw pillows and wall paper are all still a part of it! But I think that’s enough information for one week… Come back for the next We-design-day next week when we start down the process of designing your own environment!

I'd like to give a special "shout" to Clever by Design for helping me so many years ago with my logo and company image! I'm so excited to finally be at a point in my life where I can again fly the banner of the Blue Door Interior name!

We-Design-Day: Interior Fittings - Electrical Systems (week 2)

The electrical systems in our home are an important aspect to the home study. Often, with the things we can't see in our homes, we forget about it. This, I think, is pretty common with the electrical system. Considering that one hundred years ago, homes with electricity were not common, it isn't too surprising to overlook one of the most used pieces of our home!

Let's look at the parts of your electrical system so we can understand how it fits in and what kind of maintenance and work may be required as part of our home evaluation system.

The electricity that powers your home comes in through the main service head from the outside. Depending on where you live and the age of your home, it can be delivered to your home either above ground or underground. It is fed into the home via a meter - the meter is the junction point and how the utility company finds out how much power you are using. It comes into your house and drops into your service panel (also referred to an electrical panel). This is the metal box that hangs on the wall at some part of your house and from it, wires run throughout your home and feed all your electrical needs.

The electrical panel is the place to start. A few things can be told by looking at your panel. Depending on the vintage of your home, the panel may or may not be fused. If your home is about 40 years old or older (and not had it's electrical upgraded) it is likely your home has a fused panel. This means that all the circuits in your home have a fuse protecting it. When the circuit is overloaded, the fuse will blow and require replacing before it will work again. Newer panels (that are not fused) have a breaker, the breaker will trip if overloaded and simply resetting the breaker will fix the outage of power caused. If your panel is a fuse style, add it to your list to be updated. Although it still works and is reliable, fuse panels are "old" technology and improvements have been made and new breaker panels are safer.

Next, check to see if you can identify the type of drop into your panel. Prior to the 1960's (in Canada, at least), drops to panels were generally 60amp. This amperage, with all the new technology we all have in our homes (televisions, computers, home theatres, etc) is insufficient. Upgrading to 100amp is preferred and although a costly endeavor, it too is important to the function and comfort of your home. Some homes are even employing 200amp drops - I suppose a lot of this depends on the service available in your area and your demand on the system.

While looking at your panel, if you can, take a look at the conduit (big, thick silver looking pipe that carries the power to your panel). If you see the letters "AL" or the word "Aluminum" on the pipe, you very well may have aluminum wiring. This style of wiring was commonly used between 1950 and the late 1970's. Again, this is something that is in need of replacement. New code, new developments in technology all suggest this is important to correct. When we were house shopping, my other Mom went with me. Her experience in home insurance inspections was what first alerted me to the issues with this type of wiring. It can be a fire hazard.

The three aforementioned items are the "big ticket" items, other considerations include knob and tube wiring (used more commonly in homes built before 1930). If your home has this, it too should be factored in to your study and replaced.

Duplex outlets, light switches and light fixtures are all part of your electrical system and at some point, will need to be refreshed in your home. The how and when are up to you, your use of them and their function.

I do not expect (or recommend) anyone to do anything "electrical" - the electrics in your home (much like your mechanical system) can be dangerous and it is imperative that only qualified and certified personnel work on the systems. This is one area where it is life or death and is not worth trying to "DIY". I have no issue with replacing a light fixture, exchanging an outlet or maybe even wiring a new light, anything more than that and I always recommend a professional.

Thanks for reading today - next week, we are going to wrap up the Interior Fittings portion of our study.


More Reading:
US Department of Energy
More on Aluminum wiring

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Evaluating your home (pt 1)

Disclaimer: All the information given is based on my experience and knowledge and is provided for information only. It is provided as a starting point and is meant to be educational, not authoritative. Always consult a qualified engineer before deciding to replace any key component of your home. Additionally, I live in a “cold climate” and my building experience is within that family of construction and references to building code or methods of construction are applicable to the Province of Alberta only. Building code differs by province and country.


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Once you've got an idea of what should be included in your home study, figuring out the condition of the those things is quite another. Obviously, we can't be experts at everything but I think that with a reasonable amount of information and a bit of research, we can assess the condition of a few key things and the things we can't, we can use the professionals! I always like to err on the side of caution, however, because eventually, everything will need to be replaced (and yes, I know “they” guarantee asphalt shingles for “50 years”, but is it reasonable to think the one piece of my house that is continually and always exposed to the sun, wind, snow, rain, ice and birds picking at it is really going to last that long?).

Where to start? The envelope, of course! Most homes have the same exterior components to worry about – roof, walls, foundation, windows and doors, so let's start there. The existing condition of some of these may be harder to assess than others and the items that are hidden from view can be impossible to assess accurately. I'm going to start from the top down in this case, simply because a lot of judgements we have to make, when evaluating the existing condition of our envelope, aren't always easy to see and the lower we go, the more difficult it is to see with the naked eye.

The Roof:



Damaged Shingles (source)

Depending on the type of roof and the pitch of your roof (and existing laws, bylaws and governing building, occupational health and safety codes) you likely can take a look and figure out the condition of your roof. Some of the components are visible to the eye from the ground (so if you're like me and have an aversion to ladders, you can do some of the assessment from terra firma). One of the more common roofing materials used are asphalt shingles. Inexpensive, readily available and simple to install, there isn't a house on my street without this type of shingle on it's roof. Thankfully, it's also easy to tell when the shingles start to fail. Initially, the corners of the shingles will start to curl. This is especially noticeable on southern and western exposures (as they receive the most amount of sunlight and heat).

Depending on the age of your existing roof, once you notice curling, it would be reasonable to estimate 5 to 10 years until replacement is absolutely necessary. Once they start curling, it's just a matter of time before you see cracked and bent shingles and find an excess of particulate (shingle bits) in your eaves and collecting at the point where your eaves troughs drain to the ground. This past summer, our roof began leaving more shingle bits on our patio than was left on our roof.

Loose insulation (source)

If you're not afraid of heights, climb up on your roof and take a look at the areas around the penetrations (vents, chimneys, skylights). You are looking for signs of damage, wear or failure. Also, as you walk around, use your feet to feel for sponginess. If you feel the roof “give” under you, it's likely the damage goes deeper and you've got water penetration. If you've had water spots on the ceiling inside the home, this could be the cause. 

Stick your head up in the attic space as well – new (building)codes have assessed that an attic should have an “R” value of 50 – this would include batt insulation as well as loose cellulose-type fibre. You can visually assess the structure – look for visible signs of stress – cracks or rot in trusses, broken trusses and the quality and condition of the sheathing. Another thing to look for (in winter) are signs of frost or condensation on metal parts in the attic space. This is another indicator of heat loss and potential “damage” zones as water can be infiltrating the space.

Design Tip: Before poking around with insulation, consider the year of construction, asbestos was frequently used in residential construction prior to 1980 in everything from insulation to flooring. If in doubt always engage a certified professional.



Asbestos information

More information about roofing and what to look for:

When you need to replace your roof

More information about shingles

Windows and Doors:



Parts of a Window (source)



Let's look at windows first... They show us the world and can let the world in, if we're not careful! The technology in windows has evolved dramatically in the last 100 years. From simple panes of glass set in wood frames to PVC casings with sealed gas injected panels. The basic principals of installation hasn't changed too much but the materials used have changed too. A sill plate and a header support the frame of the window (which generally is still all wood) with the window enclosed in the wood frame. It is insulted (now a days with expanding spray foam) to seal the unit from the elements.

The life cycle of a window is fairly long, although the energy loss will start to show as the technology improves and the window ages. Take a look at your windows and find out what they are made of. Wood, aluminium and PVC are the three most common types of casings and start looking at the existing performance to begin your evaluation.

To evaluate the window, try the following. Do you feel a draft (hold a lit candle and move it around the frame of the window if it flickers, a draft could be present)? Can you feel the heat or cold through the pane? Is condensation present or frost and ice build-up during cold weather? To check the frame (if it is wood) tap the wood and check for soft spots or rotted wood. Think back to the last big rain – did any water penetrate the window, the frame of the parts around the window (where it sits in the wall)? How is the movement of the window? Does it open and close well or does it stick and jam? What's going on outside? Water or sun damage, peeling paint, gaps or caulking cracks can all indicate the start of failing windows.



How about doors? Many of the same techniques (to evaluate the condition) apply to the doors as do for the windows: check for drafts, ice build-up around the hardware (lockset, handle, etc.). Again, be sure to check for signs of rot in the frame. If rot is starting, it's best to deal with it first because allowing a rotting door to remain can cause larger issues as the rot spreads to the adjoining structure.

Design Tip: To improve the insulated value of windows, a topical film can be applied for the winter months to better insulate the glass or installing a heavier drapery can also help to prevent heat loss. For doors, check weather stripping and if it’s stiff, worn or cracked, replacing it can help stop drafts and cold. Draft stops (although, the Grandma made stuffed wiener dog isn’t aesthetically pleasing) can, placed at the base of door, also help.


Drafty Dog (source)



More information about window and door replacement:

When to replace windows

How to preserve your windows and doors

I'm going to stop there for this week - it is a lot of information to digest! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or send me an email! Next week, we'll continue discussing evaluation the building envelope.



We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - the starting point



Why a Home Study is necessary!



This week, we are going to start looking at what needs to be included in the home study. First, I think it's important to understand a few key things about our homes and the parts that make it all work together.

In the beginning, there was a lot. Upon the lot, was built a foundation and on that foundation a structure was erected. The structure was covered in building materials to protect the interior from the elements. On the interior of the structure (now covered in building materials) there were fittings. The fittings brought heat, light and water to the structure.

Your foundation, the exterior walls, the windows, doors and roof make up your building envelope. Much like a postage envelope, it protects the interior of the home. As important as all of the functional features are, without an intact and sufficient envelope, the rest of the parts would be exposed to the elements. If any part of the envelope fails, it will allow all the weather that blows by to blow in and will be as effective as sleeping in cardboard box. The envelope works with the heating, cooling, ventilation and electrical to enhance the performance of the home and should be examined as part of our home study. Malfunctions in the interior systems can also cause the envelope to fail. It's kind of a catch 22...

Your interior fittings include all the mechanical systems (furnace, air conditioner, plumbing (water, fixtures)), electrical systems (power, telecommunications, internet), fire systems (which in most homes includes smoke detectors and CO2 detectors) as well as your interiors finishes – flooring and wall coverings. General home improvements or modifications/upgrades generally aren't included in a typical (condominium) reserve fund study but when you are a homeowner, they do need to be included in order to keep your house current and saleable.

Overwhelmed yet? It's all really quite straight forward but I'm big on sharing information because I believe the best decisions are informed ones! Let's simplify and break down to it's parts.

Your home study needs to include everything that keeps your house together and running. In addition, it also needs to include all the flexible items. If we had a laundry list, it might look something like this:

Envelope: foundations and footings, exterior walls, door and windows (and their framing/assemblies), roof (including trusses, sheathing, shingles and related fittings and items attached to your house (awnings, decks, railings, patios).

Interior Fittings:

Mechanical systems: furnace, hot water tank, air conditioner, mechanical ducting, humidifiers, water pipes, toilets, sinks, taps, ventilation fans

Electrical systems: electrical panel, fuses, wiring, light fixtures, duplex outlets, light switches, telephones, wiring, data cabling, data connections, outlets, burglar alarms, fire suppression systems (smoke or heat detectors, CO2 monitors)

General: flooring, wall coverings (including paint, sheathing and insulation)

Aesthetic considerations: mill-work, cabinetry, appliances

This isn't necessarily a complete list but it starts to show just how many different things need to be looked at and included. Thankfully, many of the things on the list have a long life so although they will need replacing, it is possible to space the big ticket items over many years.

Thanks for joining me this week and come back next week as I start exploring how to assess the current conditions of the building and the systems with in it!

Want more information? Here are a couple of links that give a bit more detail about the topics of today's post.

http://www.hpo.bc.ca/files/download/Bulletins/WhatIsBE.pdf

http://www.home-building-answers.com/parts.html

We-Design-Day: The Home Evaluation Plan

We-Design-Day's are sponsered by Blue Door Interiors

After living in a condominium for five years, I learned a few valuable lessons. One: I don't want to go back to a poorly run condo, two: neighbours in condo complexes can be busy bodies and three: the value of a Reserve Fund Study.

What is a reserve fund study? For a condo complex, it is a document that outlines the monitory contributions that need to be made to the Reserve Fund in order to meet the need for (ongoing) maintenance and future repairs and replacements. The report encompasses all the items “owned” by the collective and puts together a list of the the current condition and sorts out a schedule of maintenance or replacement and associates the cost. This then allows the association time to find the money (usually by Special Assessment) of the owners.

In my opinion, no house should be without one either. The significant difference between a condo association and a typical homeowner is that in a house, one person is wholly responsible for all the maintenance, replacement and upkeep. In a condo, it becomes a shared expense – that is why, in part, that condominiums have become so popular. Additionally, one typically wouldn’t have a reserve fund however; it is wise to have a special savings account to pay for the ongoing repairs and maintenance or to use for emergency repairs!

We had a home inspection done when we purchased our home – the report we were provided noted the existing condition of some of the key items that should be included in a ten year plan. If you’ve got a report, pull it out and look at it. In most cases the home inspector evaluated the condition of important things like your roof, windows, doors, foundation and grade. This can be your starting point.

If you don’t have one, why did you buy a home without getting a home inspection!? Seriously, I know full well a home inspection can’t catch everything and I also understand that in the height of the housing boom (in North America, anyway), waiting often meant being outbid or disqualified because the seller didn’t want to wait for the time it takes to arrange an inspection. Professionally, I think it’s just silly to not have one. They generally cost a few hundred dollars but can save you thousands!

Case in point – my sister bought a home fifteen years ago and didn’t have a home inspection. After they’d been in the house for a bit, the learned the entire back wall of the home was filled with mould and was rotten. There were tell tales signs of mould but even though her father in law worked in the construction industry and was “handy”, no one saw them until it was too late. A proper home inspection could have given them options – to pass on the house altogether or to go back to the seller and as for a reduction in price. Without it, they were left with thousands of dollars in repair costs. It isn’t fail proof but it can significantly reduce complications! Please note, for some first time mortgage applications, the bank or lender will evaluate the home and call it an inspection but the bank only evaluates if the house is worth the price being paid, they do not inspect any elements of the house.

Whether you build new or purchase an existing home, both require time and money be put in to them in order to maintain their value. How much depends on a few key things. The year of construction, type of build, size, materials used and government rules and regulations all factor in to the equation.

Over the next few weeks, I'm going to share with you the development of my home study and explain some of the factors to be considered when developing your own plan. As always, I welcome your questions and in put - if I don't know the answers, I have the resources to find the answers for you. Check back next We-design-Day as I start rolling out our plan and explain the building envelope and it's importance.