We-Design-Day (on Thursday): How to NOT Hire a Company (for work on your house) When You're a Girl (or boy)

In my day job, I'm a project coordinator working for a large educational institution. I manage and oversee renovation and construction projects that are primarily completed by our own, on-staff Trades (electricians, plumbers, carpenters, etc). I also manage the same kind of projects done by external contractors (usually general contractors who bring any number of trades along for the ride). I have been doing this since 2004 (in addition to design, facility and telecommunications management).

Over the course of nine years, I'm managed many projects. From $2000 office refreshes to multi-million dollar new building builds. Generally, short of nearly blowing up one building and flooding part of another, they go off without a hitch. I've learned to always add a minimum of 20% contingency to EVERYTHING, add 8 to 12 weeks to every schedule (and always do it in weeks, MONTHS seem longer to the client) and always, always consult a professional when dealing with:

1. Electricity

2. Plumbing/mechanical

3. Structural issues

(Lesson One: Always know when to call in a professional)

There is one thing, however, I've not perfected the art of and that's being taken seriously in this industry, because I'm a girl. I've got cajones the size of Michigan when I need them and I can talk trash with the best of them, but I've continually run into "issues", I think, because I'm a women in a male dominated field.

I've been called an inferior designer in the middle of a site walk through (no, his firm did not get the job), I've not had calls returned when I'm inviting contractors to bid on a job (but suddenly, when a male coworker called them on the same job, they showed up) and I've had contractors out-right LIE about conversations I've had witnesses too (Lesson Two: always have witnesses).

Thankfully, at my present place of work, I have 1000% support from my senior management and the guys I work with. The support came easily and with the clause "if anyone gives your trouble (implying I may run into trouble because I'm a girl) let us know if you can't work it out." I didn't (have trouble) and I will deal with all things on my own. Always... In my personal life and work, I struggle. All. The. Damn. Time. 

In 2011, we decided we needed to have our roof replaced. I began calling companies in May - by July, not one of the four I called, returned my calls. I called another three companies. Two finally provided quotes and one of the first four had also finally decided I was worthy and also gave me quote. (For the record, one of the 'first four' returned my call this spring - two years later. Turns out they aren't so busy any more and are looking for work)

Seven companies and three quotes later, September was on the doorstep and we really needed a new roof before winter. The company had done our neighbours so without checking additional references, we hired them because they could get it done before October. I went against EVERYTHING I know I should when hiring a contractor. (Lesson Three: Never hire ANY company without checking their licensing and insurance, without interviewing them AND without calling a minimum of three references)

In addition to replacing our roof, we also wanted our eavestroughs replaced. None of the roofing contractors who did show up "did" eavestrough work.

Last summer, I called six eavestrough companies in hopes of getting a quote in a more timely fashion.

Guess what?

It didn't happen. Not one returned my call and the one who provided a "site unseen" quote via email (based only on the square footages of the house and garage) refused to return my calls and emails when I asked him to come to site for a more 'firm' quote.

So again, in May this year, I started the search. Again. I called one company May 12, 2013. He GUARANTEED me they would show up.

They didn't.

I called them back June 14. I was told they had the request but no one knew why it wasn't done. I was assured I was being 'prioritized' and someone would be out "as soon as possible" - intimating it would be done in a couple of weeks, at most.

July 9th, as I was preparing to call them AGAIN, I get a call asking if I would still be interested in getting a quote from them.  Now, I will sing out the praises of receptionists. I was less than pleasant when I called back and she was very professional, even when I was not.

The same week, I put a complaint out on Facebook about how being a girl SUCKS. My aunt gave me a number of a guy she knows who did hers. Apparently, the wife of the guy grew up down the road from my (paternal) grandparent's farm.

I called him and emailed one other company. If you're good at math, you've now deduced that I've called/contacted nine different eavestroughing companies.

By the end of the next weekend, I had three quotes, in hand (well, two, technically, my aunt's friend just gave us a price 'at the door' (again, folks, DON'T DO THIS. Always, always get a firm, written down quote with each item itemized. ALWAYS)). (Lesson Four: Always get an itemized quote)

Before my aunt's friend left, we hired him. No contract, no paper quote, just a "PLEASE DO THIS JOB, I'M DESPERATE TO NOT HAVE MY EAVES OVERFLOW AND FLOOD DURING ALL THE TORRENTIAL DOWNPOURS. AND PLEASE DO IT BEFORE WINTER."

(Lesson Five: Always have a contract, again itemizing EVERYTHING, with prices, contingency, holdbacks, EVERYTHING)

(Lesson Six: Don't let desperation get in the way)

I should have taken all three quotes, checked references, double checked references, seen the work they had done, checked the Better Business Bureau, interviewed the company and taken a few days to think it over. But I didn't. I was tired, I was desperate and I was so thankful that I finally had something to work with, I panicked, not wanting to let another contractor get away without hiring him.

Four days later, the company we'd hired showed up - well, the guy (it was a one man show, which is fine, but I didn't know that). he did the job in a day and my house has lovely, new, not leaky, not overflowing, eaves. It worked out okay. This time. I was lucky. Very lucky.

Let's recap what we've learned from my mistakes:

Lesson One: Always know when to call in a professional

Lesson Two: always have witnesses

Lesson Three: Never hire ANY company without interviewing them AND without calling a minimum of three references

Lesson Four: Always get an itemized quote

Lesson Five: Always have a contract, again itemizing EVERYTHING, with prices, contingency, holdbacks, EVERYTHING

Lesson Six: Don't let desperation get in the way

Even as a trained professional, I can't always get what I need done. Is it because I'm woman? I don't know, I really don't, but in the coming weeks, I'm going to share the right way to do all the things I did wrong. Step by step and I'll even include "the desperate woman's mantra" on how to let that contractor walk away, unhired, even if he's muscly, manly hotness in Carhartt's.

The Sandbox Story

The second weekend of the sandbox build took place this weekend.

The sandbox won.

I think this quote sums it up "...such is the transition from designer to builder. It's so EASY to DRAW the wall straight". 


It wasn't that the work was really that hard but I think it was tedious. Very tedious. And tiring. Measure 16 times, cut once. Measure again, cut again. Repeat. I can draw just about anything and I can even envision it in my head constructed but building it and fitting it together are vastly different things.

I've always admired carpenters and builders - what doesn't look hard is actually quite intricate and complicated.

We were building a sandbox. A box - a rectangular shaped box with a lid. Sounds perfectly simple for two (relatively) novice builders. And I suppose, in theory, it wasn't that hard, it just seemed to take a very long time to complete.

And it isn't complete yet. We have a box and a lid and a cubic yard of sand. The handles and trim are still to come...

But two weekends of (hard) work and it's play worthy and ready. Saturday afternoon and part of today was spent digging, piling, packing and raking. This morning, shortly after rising, I found TroubleMaker at the back door strapping on his sandals - his destination? The sandbox, of course!

We-Design-Day: The Evaluation

This week, I've got my document started! Having never done one for a home before, it's a big job. I'm still working on the format and as I move my field notes. I'm finding that I may end up doing it by room instead of by discipline.

Here is a link to the spreadsheet!

Blue Door Interiors Home Evaluation Spreadsheet

While doing my research, I found a couple of good resources that share the average life expectancy of various parts of your home.

Svistun Inspections

National Home Builders Association

I hope this information helps you get moving forward! I'll be working on this over the summer but I'm hoping to get back into design projects in the next week! With home improvement season approaching, I need get moving! Thanks for stopping by today and see you again soon!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Mechanics!

I'm back this week with another part of my study.... How is yours coming along?

Spring is coming up outside, assuming we can keep it from snowing again, and my mind is full of renovation ideas! Knowing that we have deferred maintenance to attend to does help me align my priorities but I can tell you I'd much rather be planning aesthetic components instead of thinking about the plumbing and furnace in my house!

This week, I want to take a look at laundry room, specifically, my big mechanical systems - my furnace, some ducting and our hot water tank are being looked at this week.

The first stop was the hot water tank. This is "new" to the home - we had to replace the hot water tank when it "tanked" in January, 2008. It is a moderately efficient, gas heated unit. We had it installed professionally and it is still in good condition and likely won't need to be addressed for 10 (or more) years.


New chimney and connections were installed as well. I did notice that the unit could really, really use a good dusting... One more thing to add to the housework schedule I've been working on!

Our furnace is original to the house and has been well maintained. It is now approaching 31 years of age and it is one of the things we must look at factoring in to our home study. I am a heat miser so I'd like to think my frugal and deliberate furnace programming has helped to extend the life of the unit but I know even minimal use still causes wear and at 30 years old, I can't expect miracles from the unit. It has a washable filter, thus saving general maintenance costs and the previous owners installed a humidifier when they installed the wood floors.

Again, look at all the stuff in that opening! Colour me surprised - I have no idea what it is (and I've yet to clean it up). Fortunately, our utilities companies do free evaluations of furnaces and check to ensure they are functioning properly. I will be calling late this summer to have ours evaluated and will be scheduling a duct cleaning too. Having the furnace maintenance and the ducts kept clean help the furnace work more efficiently and can work to extend the life of the unit. Furthermore, many government programs have been offering financial rebates for upgrading energy hogs like old furnaces.

In addition to looking at your furnace, you need to check the ducting too. Cold air intakes and the ducts can deteriorate and reduce efficiency (if there are penetrations or disruptions to the ducts or clogged intakes).  Our insulated ducts (the ones that bring cold air in from outside) aren't pretty, but they are functional and in decent shape.

A home evaluation is an involved and detailed process but the information gleaned is invaluable. Thanks for stopping by this week and see you again next week as we start looking at the miles of pipe that take water to and from all over the home!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Starting your study

Keeping up with my plan to document my home evaluation, I started photographing things around the house. I had planned on doing the exterior first, however, when I woke last Sunday, there was snow everywhere and it was still snowing! So I focused my attention indoors!

Doing close-up photography sure goes to show one where the dirt lurks in a house! So please excuse the large and overwhelming dust bunnies running around the pictures!

First, I started off in the master suite looking at the window casings. I was aware that we had some water infiltration in the past, however I had always thought it has been because we'd left the window open in the rain.

If you look (and I hope it translates in this picture) there are streaks down the wall. It would appear, at first glace, that I'd left the window open. The only issue is this is the end that doesn't get opened.




















Then I started examining the wall under the casing and I found evidence of further issue. See that little bitty piece of peeled paint? That, my friends, can be evidence of water damage. finding this did not make me happy. I pushed around and sniffed (don't ask, I have a weird sniffy thing I do). Now I didn't find anything soft or smell anything odd. The sniff test, for the record, is not scientific. But finding the peeled paint and additional bubbling paint indicates to me there may possibly be water infiltration at some point on the window.

I then started looking at the window structure itself and the wood supporting it. I noted it was very dusty (someone should really dust behind the blinds once and a while) and in the corners, years of ground in dirt. We bought our house in 2004 - it was 23 years old at the time and although it had been well maintained, things age naturally. Couple it with the window's northern exposure, the two large spruce trees that shade and shelter the window, the decorative wooden "trim" installed under the window and it can lead to what I'm seeing in the window. The exterior casings are also shown here and you can see that they are moderately weathered but still in reasonable condition. I do believe my 'problem' is the decorative wood piece on the outside. It's been inset in the aluminum siding this providing an easy access point for weather. I know part of it's rotten (from when I repainted it seven years ago) and I'd love to remove it (I'll take a picture of it soon - if it stops snowing at some point this weekend) but I'm not sure what's under and what exposing it would do. So, I'm smart enough to leave it alone (for now, anyway)!

Disheartened, I moved into the ensuite. I already know I've got problems in this room. Firstly, the exhaust fan conked out years ago and oh, it's so necessary in small space! I already knew the shower pan is cracked and we have a humidity problems in the space and a while back, I noticed darkening at the edge of the shower and under the toilet. Both spots indicated a leak of some variety.

I don't like dark marks under places where water is. I'm not necessarily concerned about mould - dangerous mould anyway. However, dark spots like this mean there could be rot and I don't like rot. Rot means more work. One wants to remedy leaks before dark spots appear. I'd like to say that I did this for my science, but it was mostly caused by busy lives, a husband living in a different city, marriage, new baby, new job syndrome. We got busy and didn't have the funds to manage repairs. It happens to everyone and why having a plan in place is so important.

Here is a picture of our window. Other than needing a good cleaning, a coat of paint and an operable ventilation fan, it's in reasonable condition. It does ice up in cold weather (like big chunks of ice - but this usually occurs at minus 30 Celsius).

Our sink and taps were next - the sink is cultured marble and it's horrible. The big black mark is a chip that had been previously repaired and is now deteriorating. The taps are new (we replaced them last fall). I don't like them but we opted to get the cheapest taps available as we were not in a position to properly renovate the ensuite however the taps needed replacing.

Finally, I looked under our sink to check the condition of the pipes. We've got a proper trap and the plumbing is adequate. The water lines are good and show no sign of corrosion, leaks or sweating.

Putting it all together takes effort and energy and time! Having it completed will allow me the ability to properly plan and develop our maintenance and replacement schedule. I hope you've found today's article informative and educational! If you have any questions or if you'd like additional information, feel free to send me an email! Thanks for reading and see you again next week!

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Ready, set, GO!

Thanks for checking back in with me! I wanted to take some time to let everything we've covered settle. Not only is this a lot of information to digest, it's a lot to prepare too so I want to make sure I cover the right things and make my documentation and information as thorough as possible. Furthermore, I like to share additional resources and in order to do that, I have to make sure they are valid and correct!

This week, I want to look at how we start to put all the things we've learned together. We know all the parts and the roles they play in our home and now we need to start putting them in a workable format. I like spreadsheets for this – there is software available for things like this – but the flexibility a spreadsheet offers and the ability to expand, adapt and customize it makes it my preferred choice. Before we get there though, we need to ensure we've got a workable document that we can insert our inspection notes and findings and record our evaluations. Additionally, the we need to document conditions with pictures or sketches. This is an essential piece of our report as we need a written record in order to plan our budget and develop a proper project scope.


Design Tip: We need to know what we have in order to define the parameters of our project.

To ease in the development of your scope, I've created a worksheet for you to document your findings. Feel free to print it off and use for your personal home evaluation document. This is the first piece in your "Evaluation Kit".

Tools for your Evaluation:

Home Evaluation Worksheet (direct link to the PDF being hosted on my ScribD account)
Camera
Canadian Wood Frame Construction Book

The book isn't essential but I would highly, highly recommend it for anyone (in Canada, anyway) that does any DIY, home renovation or design work. Having this book when you're hiring a contractor is helpful too. It provides a broad overview of the residential construction process and highlights very important factors that every homeowner should know. It was the “go to” reference guide for me when I was in design school and it is still an industry “go to” guide for practicing architects and designers. If you find a second hand copy, pick it up – the building code changes every few years but most of the fundamentals to wood frame construction remains fairly constant, thus making even an older copy of this book useful.

Once you've printed off the worksheet and have your trusty camera in hand, it's time to go back through your house and look at all the features we've discussed since January! I'll be back next week with the start of my home study to share with you and please feel free to email me any questions you may have about your own study!

We-Design-Day: Design 101 - A Guide to Interior Design

This article was originally posted in November 2010. With a few renovations coming up around our house, I like to go back to what I know and it's a good refresher!

In conjunction with the changes I’m working on trying to make to my blog, I’ve been working on a couple of serial articles to share. One of which is a regular, weekly feature on interior design. My hope is to provide anyone with an interest a kind of “insider’s look” at small scale design and renovation projects. I’d like to share my knowledge and experience and make it a true ‘how to’ so I can help demystify an interesting and very popular vocation.

My intent is to share some of the history and principals of interior design and work through the process of a project from beginning to end. Having worked in the field for many years, I can provide insight on the construction process, how to hire a designer and general contractor, what to do when things go wrong and how to make changes on the ‘fly’.

So over the coming weeks, my company, Blue Door Interiors, will be sponsoring the “We-Design-Day ” articles and I’ll take you through the entire process of a (small) renovation project from conception to completion. Along the way, I’ll provide some Design 101 education, answer any questions you have, provide free tips and ideas and I’m planning a give-a-way or two as well!

Without further adieu, let’s get We-Design-Day underway!

When I decided to quit my ‘day job’ and return to school, I was 26 years old. I’d spent my late teens and early 20’s in the retail and middle management jobs and I knew that wasn’t what I wanted to do for the rest of my life! I had the good fortune of being able to examine what I wanted to be when I “grew up” – I’d worked in a few different fields, had experience in what I liked (and didn’t like) and got to pick my profession. Most people don’t get that luxury so I am very thankful that my delinquent youth proved to be useful for something!

During my education and work experience, I’ve learned a lot about myself, my tastes, and my design style. I don’t follow fashion and I’m not a follower of trends. I firmly believe that the most appropriate solution for the problems I’ve faced in my career are generally the ones best suited to those who seek them.

And by that I mean it is certainly possible to design for today and accessorize with the latest trends and colours and I certainly can make your home look like the page of a magazine. But coupled with my love for interior design is a love for the environment and blending sustainable design with interior design for me go hand in hand – my first school project taught me that (I specified a compostable toilet, much to the horror of my professor)! I’m about function and form and reusing, reducing and even recycling when designing. We all want our homes to be a reflection of us and the way we live – good design can be attained by combining a good understanding of how a space functions and how the people who use the space live.

I’m about real design for real people.

This week, I’d like to share a few staple pieces of interior design information regarding the history, evolution and some definitions. My first year of design was tough. I’ve never memorized so many things in my life! Included in that memorization was the ‘definition’ of what Interior Design is… It only has changed a little bit from what I memorized and I see I’ve been ahead of my time as they now mention “sustainable design” in the definition.

Interior design is a multi-facet profession in which creative and technical solutions are applied within a structure to achieve a built interior environment. These solutions are functional, enhance the quality of life and culture of the occupants and are aesthetically attractive. Designs are created in response to and coordinated with the building shell and acknowledge the physical location and social context of the project. Designs must adhere to code and regulatory requirements and encourage the principles of environmental sustainability. The interior design process follows a systematic and coordinated methodology, including research, analysis and integration of knowledge into the creative process, whereby the needs and the resources of the client are satisfied to produce and interior space the fulfills the project cools. Interior design includes a scope of services performed by a professional design practitioner, qualified by means of education, experience and examination, to protect and enhance the health, life safety and welfare of the public. Definition provided by the NCIDQ (National Council for Interior Design Qualification) NCIDQ

To find where “interior design” and “interior decoration” started, one must look a long way back in time… One could say it even started when the first people furnished their caves with pelts and painted the walls, although pelts were functional and the paintings area theorized to be everything from trance drawings by Shaman to methods of communication, it still improved the interior living spaces. When the first peoples started building shelter for themselves, it all began to take form. At that time, however, the exterior and the interior were thought of in unison and as “one” space. As we (man) evolved from grass huts, the building envelope (the exterior of the buildings) strongly influenced the interior shape and function of an area.

The common use of the term “Interior Design” was not accepted into popular use until after the Second World War. Prior to the Second World War, and only really dating back to the late 1800’s, the design of an interior was often encapsulated within the architecture of the building as a whole. Any application to interiors was commonly referred to as interior decoration and specifically regarded only the application of surface ornamentation, colour, furnishings and accessories.

After WWII, a divide began to take place between the ornamentation of a space and how the space worked. This split is where the shape of Interior Design truly began to emerge as a valid and respected part of the built environment (and more than just throw pillows and wall paper).

But today, throw pillows and wall paper are all still a part of it! But I think that’s enough information for one week… Come back for the next We-design-day next week when we start down the process of designing your own environment!

I'd like to give a special "shout" to Clever by Design for helping me so many years ago with my logo and company image! I'm so excited to finally be at a point in my life where I can again fly the banner of the Blue Door Interior name!

We-Design-Day: Interior Fittings - Electrical Systems (week 2)

The electrical systems in our home are an important aspect to the home study. Often, with the things we can't see in our homes, we forget about it. This, I think, is pretty common with the electrical system. Considering that one hundred years ago, homes with electricity were not common, it isn't too surprising to overlook one of the most used pieces of our home!

Let's look at the parts of your electrical system so we can understand how it fits in and what kind of maintenance and work may be required as part of our home evaluation system.

The electricity that powers your home comes in through the main service head from the outside. Depending on where you live and the age of your home, it can be delivered to your home either above ground or underground. It is fed into the home via a meter - the meter is the junction point and how the utility company finds out how much power you are using. It comes into your house and drops into your service panel (also referred to an electrical panel). This is the metal box that hangs on the wall at some part of your house and from it, wires run throughout your home and feed all your electrical needs.

The electrical panel is the place to start. A few things can be told by looking at your panel. Depending on the vintage of your home, the panel may or may not be fused. If your home is about 40 years old or older (and not had it's electrical upgraded) it is likely your home has a fused panel. This means that all the circuits in your home have a fuse protecting it. When the circuit is overloaded, the fuse will blow and require replacing before it will work again. Newer panels (that are not fused) have a breaker, the breaker will trip if overloaded and simply resetting the breaker will fix the outage of power caused. If your panel is a fuse style, add it to your list to be updated. Although it still works and is reliable, fuse panels are "old" technology and improvements have been made and new breaker panels are safer.

Next, check to see if you can identify the type of drop into your panel. Prior to the 1960's (in Canada, at least), drops to panels were generally 60amp. This amperage, with all the new technology we all have in our homes (televisions, computers, home theatres, etc) is insufficient. Upgrading to 100amp is preferred and although a costly endeavor, it too is important to the function and comfort of your home. Some homes are even employing 200amp drops - I suppose a lot of this depends on the service available in your area and your demand on the system.

While looking at your panel, if you can, take a look at the conduit (big, thick silver looking pipe that carries the power to your panel). If you see the letters "AL" or the word "Aluminum" on the pipe, you very well may have aluminum wiring. This style of wiring was commonly used between 1950 and the late 1970's. Again, this is something that is in need of replacement. New code, new developments in technology all suggest this is important to correct. When we were house shopping, my other Mom went with me. Her experience in home insurance inspections was what first alerted me to the issues with this type of wiring. It can be a fire hazard.

The three aforementioned items are the "big ticket" items, other considerations include knob and tube wiring (used more commonly in homes built before 1930). If your home has this, it too should be factored in to your study and replaced.

Duplex outlets, light switches and light fixtures are all part of your electrical system and at some point, will need to be refreshed in your home. The how and when are up to you, your use of them and their function.

I do not expect (or recommend) anyone to do anything "electrical" - the electrics in your home (much like your mechanical system) can be dangerous and it is imperative that only qualified and certified personnel work on the systems. This is one area where it is life or death and is not worth trying to "DIY". I have no issue with replacing a light fixture, exchanging an outlet or maybe even wiring a new light, anything more than that and I always recommend a professional.

Thanks for reading today - next week, we are going to wrap up the Interior Fittings portion of our study.


More Reading:
US Department of Energy
More on Aluminum wiring

We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - Evaluating your home (pt 1)

Disclaimer: All the information given is based on my experience and knowledge and is provided for information only. It is provided as a starting point and is meant to be educational, not authoritative. Always consult a qualified engineer before deciding to replace any key component of your home. Additionally, I live in a “cold climate” and my building experience is within that family of construction and references to building code or methods of construction are applicable to the Province of Alberta only. Building code differs by province and country.


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Once you've got an idea of what should be included in your home study, figuring out the condition of the those things is quite another. Obviously, we can't be experts at everything but I think that with a reasonable amount of information and a bit of research, we can assess the condition of a few key things and the things we can't, we can use the professionals! I always like to err on the side of caution, however, because eventually, everything will need to be replaced (and yes, I know “they” guarantee asphalt shingles for “50 years”, but is it reasonable to think the one piece of my house that is continually and always exposed to the sun, wind, snow, rain, ice and birds picking at it is really going to last that long?).

Where to start? The envelope, of course! Most homes have the same exterior components to worry about – roof, walls, foundation, windows and doors, so let's start there. The existing condition of some of these may be harder to assess than others and the items that are hidden from view can be impossible to assess accurately. I'm going to start from the top down in this case, simply because a lot of judgements we have to make, when evaluating the existing condition of our envelope, aren't always easy to see and the lower we go, the more difficult it is to see with the naked eye.

The Roof:



Damaged Shingles (source)

Depending on the type of roof and the pitch of your roof (and existing laws, bylaws and governing building, occupational health and safety codes) you likely can take a look and figure out the condition of your roof. Some of the components are visible to the eye from the ground (so if you're like me and have an aversion to ladders, you can do some of the assessment from terra firma). One of the more common roofing materials used are asphalt shingles. Inexpensive, readily available and simple to install, there isn't a house on my street without this type of shingle on it's roof. Thankfully, it's also easy to tell when the shingles start to fail. Initially, the corners of the shingles will start to curl. This is especially noticeable on southern and western exposures (as they receive the most amount of sunlight and heat).

Depending on the age of your existing roof, once you notice curling, it would be reasonable to estimate 5 to 10 years until replacement is absolutely necessary. Once they start curling, it's just a matter of time before you see cracked and bent shingles and find an excess of particulate (shingle bits) in your eaves and collecting at the point where your eaves troughs drain to the ground. This past summer, our roof began leaving more shingle bits on our patio than was left on our roof.

Loose insulation (source)

If you're not afraid of heights, climb up on your roof and take a look at the areas around the penetrations (vents, chimneys, skylights). You are looking for signs of damage, wear or failure. Also, as you walk around, use your feet to feel for sponginess. If you feel the roof “give” under you, it's likely the damage goes deeper and you've got water penetration. If you've had water spots on the ceiling inside the home, this could be the cause. 

Stick your head up in the attic space as well – new (building)codes have assessed that an attic should have an “R” value of 50 – this would include batt insulation as well as loose cellulose-type fibre. You can visually assess the structure – look for visible signs of stress – cracks or rot in trusses, broken trusses and the quality and condition of the sheathing. Another thing to look for (in winter) are signs of frost or condensation on metal parts in the attic space. This is another indicator of heat loss and potential “damage” zones as water can be infiltrating the space.

Design Tip: Before poking around with insulation, consider the year of construction, asbestos was frequently used in residential construction prior to 1980 in everything from insulation to flooring. If in doubt always engage a certified professional.



Asbestos information

More information about roofing and what to look for:

When you need to replace your roof

More information about shingles

Windows and Doors:



Parts of a Window (source)



Let's look at windows first... They show us the world and can let the world in, if we're not careful! The technology in windows has evolved dramatically in the last 100 years. From simple panes of glass set in wood frames to PVC casings with sealed gas injected panels. The basic principals of installation hasn't changed too much but the materials used have changed too. A sill plate and a header support the frame of the window (which generally is still all wood) with the window enclosed in the wood frame. It is insulted (now a days with expanding spray foam) to seal the unit from the elements.

The life cycle of a window is fairly long, although the energy loss will start to show as the technology improves and the window ages. Take a look at your windows and find out what they are made of. Wood, aluminium and PVC are the three most common types of casings and start looking at the existing performance to begin your evaluation.

To evaluate the window, try the following. Do you feel a draft (hold a lit candle and move it around the frame of the window if it flickers, a draft could be present)? Can you feel the heat or cold through the pane? Is condensation present or frost and ice build-up during cold weather? To check the frame (if it is wood) tap the wood and check for soft spots or rotted wood. Think back to the last big rain – did any water penetrate the window, the frame of the parts around the window (where it sits in the wall)? How is the movement of the window? Does it open and close well or does it stick and jam? What's going on outside? Water or sun damage, peeling paint, gaps or caulking cracks can all indicate the start of failing windows.



How about doors? Many of the same techniques (to evaluate the condition) apply to the doors as do for the windows: check for drafts, ice build-up around the hardware (lockset, handle, etc.). Again, be sure to check for signs of rot in the frame. If rot is starting, it's best to deal with it first because allowing a rotting door to remain can cause larger issues as the rot spreads to the adjoining structure.

Design Tip: To improve the insulated value of windows, a topical film can be applied for the winter months to better insulate the glass or installing a heavier drapery can also help to prevent heat loss. For doors, check weather stripping and if it’s stiff, worn or cracked, replacing it can help stop drafts and cold. Draft stops (although, the Grandma made stuffed wiener dog isn’t aesthetically pleasing) can, placed at the base of door, also help.


Drafty Dog (source)



More information about window and door replacement:

When to replace windows

How to preserve your windows and doors

I'm going to stop there for this week - it is a lot of information to digest! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or send me an email! Next week, we'll continue discussing evaluation the building envelope.



We-Design-Day: Home Evaluation - the starting point



Why a Home Study is necessary!



This week, we are going to start looking at what needs to be included in the home study. First, I think it's important to understand a few key things about our homes and the parts that make it all work together.

In the beginning, there was a lot. Upon the lot, was built a foundation and on that foundation a structure was erected. The structure was covered in building materials to protect the interior from the elements. On the interior of the structure (now covered in building materials) there were fittings. The fittings brought heat, light and water to the structure.

Your foundation, the exterior walls, the windows, doors and roof make up your building envelope. Much like a postage envelope, it protects the interior of the home. As important as all of the functional features are, without an intact and sufficient envelope, the rest of the parts would be exposed to the elements. If any part of the envelope fails, it will allow all the weather that blows by to blow in and will be as effective as sleeping in cardboard box. The envelope works with the heating, cooling, ventilation and electrical to enhance the performance of the home and should be examined as part of our home study. Malfunctions in the interior systems can also cause the envelope to fail. It's kind of a catch 22...

Your interior fittings include all the mechanical systems (furnace, air conditioner, plumbing (water, fixtures)), electrical systems (power, telecommunications, internet), fire systems (which in most homes includes smoke detectors and CO2 detectors) as well as your interiors finishes – flooring and wall coverings. General home improvements or modifications/upgrades generally aren't included in a typical (condominium) reserve fund study but when you are a homeowner, they do need to be included in order to keep your house current and saleable.

Overwhelmed yet? It's all really quite straight forward but I'm big on sharing information because I believe the best decisions are informed ones! Let's simplify and break down to it's parts.

Your home study needs to include everything that keeps your house together and running. In addition, it also needs to include all the flexible items. If we had a laundry list, it might look something like this:

Envelope: foundations and footings, exterior walls, door and windows (and their framing/assemblies), roof (including trusses, sheathing, shingles and related fittings and items attached to your house (awnings, decks, railings, patios).

Interior Fittings:

Mechanical systems: furnace, hot water tank, air conditioner, mechanical ducting, humidifiers, water pipes, toilets, sinks, taps, ventilation fans

Electrical systems: electrical panel, fuses, wiring, light fixtures, duplex outlets, light switches, telephones, wiring, data cabling, data connections, outlets, burglar alarms, fire suppression systems (smoke or heat detectors, CO2 monitors)

General: flooring, wall coverings (including paint, sheathing and insulation)

Aesthetic considerations: mill-work, cabinetry, appliances

This isn't necessarily a complete list but it starts to show just how many different things need to be looked at and included. Thankfully, many of the things on the list have a long life so although they will need replacing, it is possible to space the big ticket items over many years.

Thanks for joining me this week and come back next week as I start exploring how to assess the current conditions of the building and the systems with in it!

Want more information? Here are a couple of links that give a bit more detail about the topics of today's post.

http://www.hpo.bc.ca/files/download/Bulletins/WhatIsBE.pdf

http://www.home-building-answers.com/parts.html

We-Design-Day: The Home Evaluation Plan

We-Design-Day's are sponsered by Blue Door Interiors

After living in a condominium for five years, I learned a few valuable lessons. One: I don't want to go back to a poorly run condo, two: neighbours in condo complexes can be busy bodies and three: the value of a Reserve Fund Study.

What is a reserve fund study? For a condo complex, it is a document that outlines the monitory contributions that need to be made to the Reserve Fund in order to meet the need for (ongoing) maintenance and future repairs and replacements. The report encompasses all the items “owned” by the collective and puts together a list of the the current condition and sorts out a schedule of maintenance or replacement and associates the cost. This then allows the association time to find the money (usually by Special Assessment) of the owners.

In my opinion, no house should be without one either. The significant difference between a condo association and a typical homeowner is that in a house, one person is wholly responsible for all the maintenance, replacement and upkeep. In a condo, it becomes a shared expense – that is why, in part, that condominiums have become so popular. Additionally, one typically wouldn’t have a reserve fund however; it is wise to have a special savings account to pay for the ongoing repairs and maintenance or to use for emergency repairs!

We had a home inspection done when we purchased our home – the report we were provided noted the existing condition of some of the key items that should be included in a ten year plan. If you’ve got a report, pull it out and look at it. In most cases the home inspector evaluated the condition of important things like your roof, windows, doors, foundation and grade. This can be your starting point.

If you don’t have one, why did you buy a home without getting a home inspection!? Seriously, I know full well a home inspection can’t catch everything and I also understand that in the height of the housing boom (in North America, anyway), waiting often meant being outbid or disqualified because the seller didn’t want to wait for the time it takes to arrange an inspection. Professionally, I think it’s just silly to not have one. They generally cost a few hundred dollars but can save you thousands!

Case in point – my sister bought a home fifteen years ago and didn’t have a home inspection. After they’d been in the house for a bit, the learned the entire back wall of the home was filled with mould and was rotten. There were tell tales signs of mould but even though her father in law worked in the construction industry and was “handy”, no one saw them until it was too late. A proper home inspection could have given them options – to pass on the house altogether or to go back to the seller and as for a reduction in price. Without it, they were left with thousands of dollars in repair costs. It isn’t fail proof but it can significantly reduce complications! Please note, for some first time mortgage applications, the bank or lender will evaluate the home and call it an inspection but the bank only evaluates if the house is worth the price being paid, they do not inspect any elements of the house.

Whether you build new or purchase an existing home, both require time and money be put in to them in order to maintain their value. How much depends on a few key things. The year of construction, type of build, size, materials used and government rules and regulations all factor in to the equation.

Over the next few weeks, I'm going to share with you the development of my home study and explain some of the factors to be considered when developing your own plan. As always, I welcome your questions and in put - if I don't know the answers, I have the resources to find the answers for you. Check back next We-design-Day as I start rolling out our plan and explain the building envelope and it's importance.

We-Design-Day: Trending 2012

I promise, one day, I'll finish the basement and do the big "reveal"... Really, I will but today is not that day.

With the year winding down (that's a thought, hey?), predictions are being made and pushed forward. Not predictions of gloom or the curse of 2012 but design, fashion, architectural changes and innovations, colours and all the things that make our living world functional and aesthetically pleasing. Generally, I am not a trend follower - trends come and go and with my strong subscription to sustainable design, I have a moral obligation to encourage repurposing, reusing and reducing the unnecessary consumerism.

But daydreaming and rethinking some of the ways we look at trending can lend itself to incorporating bits and pieces into designs so we can be modern without breaking the bank, destroying the environment or having all Harvest Gold appliances for decades after it went out of fashion (Hmmm... I wonder if Stainless steel will ever end up causing the shivers Avocado green does????)!

I'd like to introduce to you the "must have" colours being predicted for 2012...

PANTONE 17-1463 Tangerine Tango
PANTONE 13-0759 Solar Power
PANTONE 18-3628 Bellflower
PANTONE 18-2140 Cabaret
PANTONE 19-3953 Sodalite Blue
PANTONE 14-0116 Margarita
PANTONE 14-2808 Sweet Lilac
PANTONE 14-5420 Cockatoo
PANTONE 18-1210 Driftwood
PANTONE 16-1120 Starfish



Any thoughts? It is funny to think that a panel of people sit around picking out and trending the upcoming colours - two years in advance. Seriously! Someone already knows what the top colour selections will be for the fall of 2014!

This following photo is great eye candy but I love how it's blending a work space with a living space! The basement renovation I've undertaken was done so I could have my studio as part of the family living area so we can work and interact together without isolating us from the family. This space does this fantastically - I love the idea of using fabrics as (temporary) art! If you are a sewer, this would be a fabulous way to store your fabrics and remember what you have on hand! And your "art" can always stay fresh as you'll be using your stash! The over sized hangers would be a simple and easy wood project - some MDF and a jigsaw and TADA!



Design Tip

Incorporating the hot colours could be done easily and sustainably if you work with a neutral colour pallet. If you look at the hot colours Pantone is predicting, there are a few selections that are neutrals. Those colours vary slighting in shade and tone but the essence remains year to year. Incorporate ones that work for you in fixed items - large furniture and base colours for walls and play up the fun and interest by using the punches creatively - whether it is in toss pillows, lamp shades or fresh flowers you can use the colours to anchor a space.

Not a fan of the neutral? That works too - if you pick your big pieces to work long term with a variety of neutral accents. Just make sure you love the colour and will love it in five or ten years! Even with the advent of knock-down furniture, not everyone will want (or could afford) to replace it semi-annually!

Have questions about trending or want more information? Below are couple of links with trend information. For a whole new world, take a look at Maison De Objet - inspirational, for sure!

Pantone 2012 Predictions
2011 Design Trends

We-Design-Day: An Introduction to Ergonomics

With the first We-Design-Day project nearing completion, it is time to start looking at how to make the new 'family' computer workstation usable, friendly and organized. The office space in the studio will be used by all of us. Me, my husband and TroubleMaker. Additionally it is likely that visitors will use the station as well (to check email or surf).

It is open to the rest of our family room so the space is always in view and always accessible. This is a risky endeavor for me. As some of you may have come to realize, I am... Well, I'm a clutter bug. I attract clutter like honey attracts bees. It doesn't seem to matter how often I purge and organize, whenever I turn around, more clutter and piles have appeared and I never can quite figure out how. Well, I have a theory, but I don't quite understand how bunnies could be responsible...

We have limited layout space. We have one 24"x39" table butted up to a 24"x60" table. This is our flat work surface. I also have a 24"x39" table on castors to wheel around when extra space is required - at tax time and my husband's company year end. I just have to make sure I don't pile it three apples high with papers!

There are a few things a person can employ when designing their own work space. Now, I know the tables I purchased and our existing chair aren't exactly perfect specimens of ergonomically designed furniture but with other devices, we can work to make the space more comfortable and usable.

Keep in mind the people who will be working in the space and these considerations:
1. How tall are the users?
2. Do they were glasses? (Bi or trifocals will also add another level of complication)

A workstation can be flexible and adaptable. Adjusting chair height and the position of the monitor can often be enough to make a station usable for people of varying heights and sizes.

Posture is a key concern, especially when one spends much time at a computer. Ergonomically, often the correct position is uncomfortable as we've become so accustomed to having poor working posture. The rule of thumb is:
The computer workstation should allow you to sit with:

• head held upright to follow the curve of the spine
• arms held horizontally with an approximately 90-degree angle at the elbow
• wrists in neutral position
• thighs parallel to the floor so that the hip angle is 90-degrees
• feet should be supported by a foot rest or the floor so that there is a 90-degree angle at the ankle

As a right-handed person but a left-hounded mouser, I can also tell you it is essential to ensure your forearm is supported while using the mouse. Avoid pressure on the wrist - those gel wrist rests are garbage - toss them out! I spent a good long while drafting at a kitchen table on a plastic lawn chair (in a design office, no less) and it trashed my arm.

I've been asked about office chairs. I've specified chairs for a variety of people and at a variety of price points. Chairs, like footwear, glasses and blue jeans, change with the season. What is the hot seat (haha) this year is different than it was ten years ago. But like blue jeans, glasses and shoes, they all have basic principals that never change much regardless of the colour or style.

Here is a link to some basic chair terminology.

Chairs have several parts. Some move, some don't. They all provide support and hopefully, comfort. Choosing a chair is a personal thing. I once had a client who wanted the cheapest, most basic chair she could get out of the office supply store catalogue and I've had clients have me bring in 10 different chairs to 'test drive' before committing to a model.

Basic Steno Chair

Teknion's Contessa Chair

Herman Miller's Aeron Chair

The latter two pictures are the "hot" items at the moment. I've sat in both and both are great seats. The Aeron is "the" chair and it is a great chair. It comes in sizes (a first for a chair, I might add), has a breathable mesh back and seat and is truly a comfort to sit in. It retails for around $900 CDN. The Contessa is Teknion's answer to the Aeron. It is a good chair too, nice comfort and a good fit. It too has a price point around $900 CDN.

I don't know about you, but that's a lot of money for a chair. That said, I have a super nice executive chair in my husband's office. But that's because I got it at a design fundraiser for a SONG! My office chair is a $50 Staples special.

Before making a decision, it's important to identify how you will be using the chair and anything specific about your physical need. I am tall, I like a deep seat pan and a waterfall edge. The seat has to adjust up and down (height) and have adjustable arms - even though I don't use them, not having them makes me feel like I'm falling out of the chair!

Want more info? Looking for some additional help in setting up an ergonomic workstation?

Ergotron
Ergotron Workspace Planner
Ortho Info

Aeron Chair Image courtesy of Gabriel Ross
Contessa Chair Image courtesy of Teknion

If you have any seating questions, feel free to send me an email or post a comment and I'll do my best to help you out! Thanks for stopping by and see you next week!

We-Design-Day: Lights... Action!

This past week, I've done more research into lighting and have likely over thought the whole process but I'm more confident that I've figured out a solution that will fulfill my lighting needs.

Although there are many tools available on the Internet to help you calculate how much lighting one will require for any space, if the understanding isn't present, they likely won't help. This is what I found out this week. Although I understand the concept and even know the recommended schematic used when lighting certain spaces, ensuring that an adequate level of light is obtained isn't as easy as typing a few key words into a search engine.

After probing a coworker (who is an electrical engineer) he further explained that sometimes the information that is posted on an information sheet can be misleading if you don't have the formulas to calculate the answers.

Trust me, that last sentence had me staring blankly into space too. ;)

What I did learn is that more is usually better - as we age, our eyesight deteriorates. All of us require more light to see appropriately. Reread that last sentence and memorize it. I think it's so important, I'll type it again.

All of us require more light to see appropriately.

What that means is that even though we all think we see just fine with our current lighting levels, more lighting would make it easier to see. Furthermore, with the increasing popularity of compact fluorescent (and the phasing out of conventional light bulbs) more of them are usually required to recreate the same light levels that conventional bulbs create.

I finally decided on two, two lamp fluorescent fixtures spaced over the two main work spaces in the studio space. Additionally, I'm going to install a under counter light strip under the Expedit unit I'm going to hang on the wall. I also want to add spot lights on the bookshelves and possibly some art-type lighting on different series of artwork I want to hang. I also have task lighting on my sewing cabinet and I have task lights for the computer desks as well.

Reflected Ceiling Plan

In the family area, I had thought about adding more lighting, but we've got two floor lamps we'll be moving downstairs. I did want to add a new fixture in the games area, but naturally, there are too many things in the ceiling (pipes, ducts and such)! we'll be changing out the existing halogen fixtures for new pendants - bulb type to be determined.

Lights, we all need them - planning for them can be tricky but if you figure out what you're doing in the space and how much light the fixture you want puts out and marry it to the figures I provided last week, you could be well on your way to illuminating your life!

Thanks for stopping in and I look forward to seeing you again next week!

We-Design-Day: How do you solve a problem like...

How much light do I need in my work space?

Today, I'm going to explore more about lighting design. If you remember this post, we discussed the types of lighting - today, I want to get a little more in depth about how we can use those lighting ideas and how you can employ them to creatively, aesthetically and functionally design the lighting in your home or office.

As always, first we must cover a bit of terminology (put your learning hats on)...

Lumens the unit of measure of light output - traditionally defined as one lumen equals the same amount of light put out by one candle
Wattage determines the energy used by the light*
Light output how much light a light source will generate
Colour Rendering Index a measure of how precisely an artificial light source displays colours
Colour Temperature colour temperature of a light source indicates the colour of the light put out by the source and is measured in degrees Kelvin (the lower the value, the warmer the light put out. Higher values are cooler. Incandescent bulbs are lower (more yellow) as where fluorescent bulbs (especially traditional ones) are more blue
Efficacy is the ratio of the lumens produce to wattage consumed (or used)

*We all know bulbs are sold by watt - 40, 60 or 100 watt (incandescent) and now we've got 15, 22, 32 (and many more) in fluorescent bulbs. This number does not equal light output by the bulb (or brightness of the bulb). This number - the wattage of the bulb - only specifies the amount of energy used by the bulb each and every time the light is turned on. To measure the brightness, we have to use Lumens. Additionally, looking at other factors, like temperature or colour rendering index of the brightness quality will also aid us in selecting the correct lighting for our homes.

The next step is to examine the space we are designing the lighting for and the activities that will be going on in the room. All rooms in our homes have different requirements and needs based on the function of the space. There are variables we can try to accommodate when developing our plan.

Who is using the space and how is their eyesight? As we age, our eyes require more time to see things and we require much more light to see. The type of tasks being done are also a key factor as to "how much" light will be needed.

Professionally, I have used a set standard when doing lighting designs and similar principles and guidelines should be employed. When we look at lighting as a whole, standardized light levels can be (and have been) employed. Naturally because every situation is different, the levels can be adjusted to meet the needs of the space, client and design.

Here are some averages to give you an idea:
Space Recommended Light Output (lumens/square meter)
Kitchen 300 - 550
Living room 300 - 500
Home office/workshop 500 - 1200
Dining Room 200 - 350

During my research, I happened upon a gem of a resource. It is a simple and effective planning guide for lighting! Provided for free download from our friends at the Office for Energy Efficiency with in the Department of Natural Resources Canada, is the Home Lighting Design Guide Pocketbook

I'm going to wrap it up here for this week - there is a lot of information to digest and because its a big subject, it is important to take the time to sit back and think through the space you are going to be illuminating.

References:
Natural Resources Canada
Home Depot Canada
TCP
BC Building Info
MegaVolt
Image courtesy of Outdoor Wedding Lighting

We-Design-Day: Blood, sweat and more sweat

After riding the high of last week's very successful demolition, bright and (not so) early Thursday morning, I came up with a list of needed materials. I drew and redrew the reflected ceiling plan*, trying different solutions that would minimize the need for new grid pieces (don't forget, I'm all Earthy and like to reuse, reduce and recycle where I can) and simplify the work. There wasn't an easy solution so I opted to purchase all new equipment for the space so that we could connect it to the existing ceiling. We needed lumber, drywall and some fasteners. Our total spend came to a surprising $332.68! If you recall, my budget was very near this number. I also realized I made an error (who, me?!). Design Tip Just so you know, a "Dummy Knob" is just a single sided door knob. I'm not really sure of what purpose it serves but it won't work for what we needed it for! So the cost of our knobs increased to $20.97 per piece. I also decided to not get new registers. What we have is fine and getting anything new may require alterations to the existing duct work.

Building a Bulkhead

We got to try our hand at construction. I am a great planner - I see everything from start to finish but I don't always understand how to make that vision a reality. This is where my husband is great. Between the two of us, we talk through the issue and "air draw" the solution. Hence this bulkhead. I could see it in my head and I could illustrate it on paper but it was the air drawing that solidified the plan forward.

Mud Trouble

Once we patched all the walls and erected the bulk head, we set to mudding the walls. I am most definitely the one with the "touch" for this job but the boys always help me. It took me a while to figure out why the full bucket of drywall compound was disappearing so quickly. I soon learned that TroubleMaker had his own method of applying it - thick, thicker and thickest!

The Weekend's Work (new floor)

We learned some helpful stuff along the way. Design Tip When you are patching a dropped ceiling, ensure that you line up the holes on the t-bar. We learned this the hard way... Thankfully, I had bought enough to rebuild the old ceiling (I had hoped to reuse what we took down). Having done it once, I wouldn't be afraid to do it again but it is fairly labour intensive. Having said that, it certainly is easier than hanging drywall!

New floor with ceiling grid

The floor was a labour of love. We decided to install it over the existing carpet. We patched the area where the walls once stood and laid it down. Over all, I am happy with the look of the floor and the decision. To take up the carpet and patch the million Hilti nail blasts to the concrete would have added time and cost to the renovation. It is a bit spongy but I'm hopeful that once we get the furniture in place, it will lose some of that soft feeling. TroubleMaker loves the new floor and has spent plenty of time dancing around on it!

I'm extremely proud of the work we accomplished over the six days. Although I had hoped to get the room fully finished by the time I went back to work on Monday, I've come to realize that there was far more work involved then I initially thought. Adding to my upcoming expense and time line are refinishing the walls. As we removed the baseboard, much of the paint peeled with it (and yes, we did "cut" the seam) and TroubleMaker thought it a good idea to try and rip some of it off! I look at this as a good thing - I wanted to real customize the studio and this will give me the chance to do it!

Next week, I'm going to go over some important information about refinishing furniture. As you may recall, I'm refinishing a hand-me down cabinet for a fabulous Upcycled Interior Chic project.

Thanks for stopping in and come back soon!











* A reflected ceiling plan is much like a 'floor plan' but it looks up, instead of down.